Kicker Solobaric S12D subs (old school circle)

those subs in a good box will work just fine.actually more than just fine.get a good amp to feed them and you'll be fine.buy the best amp you can.

 

wait are those single or dual voice coils?i dont remember how the older subs were configured.

 

Are those used or brand new??? I've been trying to find a deal on some of the old school solo's.

Yes those are good for rock and metal...if in the correct enclosure.

 

anz would'nt 1 cubic foot per sub work?my L5 is in about that size box,and it slams.

 

any one there?

 

is anyone here?

 

Yes...those old school solo's were designed for small enclosures...about 1 cubic foot will work perfectly...

I've looked up the manuals for those online before...they give you the box size and power handlings of each box...vented and sealed.

 

assuming those are 12's I'm pretty sure .89 cu. ft. per sub was what the factory put out, they are real good subs if the box is not too big and sealed is your only option..........Solo Baric is a single speaker that work like two speakers in an Iso Baric setup, when they came out people were going toward SPL in competition Solo's were Kickers answer to more subs more noise they were they're top of the line and the name carried over to the sqaures. I've never seen anyone not happy with round Solo's but the box is critical, get the box size from Kicker and you'll be happy, they like the power the more the better.

 

An isobaric loading is not for spl...It is used to halve the internal box volume requirement.

But dan...those old school solo's shine in small sealed enclosures.

 

To me Metal and Rock means AC/DC, Ted Nugent, Molly Hatchet, Deep Purple, Led Zepplin......., Metal and Rock is much more about the guitars than the bass. So for the most part any good subwoofer (your Kickers for example) in the right enclosure should do a good job.

But what I think you'll be missing is the mid-bass so prevelent in Metal. Listen for example to Space Trunkin' by Deep Purple. The Rhythm Guitar part is not usually reproduced with enough level in most systems.

I would think woofer and box selection would be the easiest part of system selection.

 

Nice subs,


Enclosure size will depend upon how much power yur gonna push them with . No bigger than .9 cuft. More power = smaller enclosure

 

smaller enclosure = less efficient

 

Not really true. A smaller enclosure will raise the Q of the box/speaker overall, resulting in a very "peaky" output at higher frequencies. With a sacrifice in low frequency output. (thats where the "less efficient" term might apply! )

I know, never done this, but put each solobaric sub in a enclosure half of what is required, then mount the solo's "calmshelled" in isobaric configuraton! Should work!

 

Ahh indeed...iso-loading halves the internal volume correct???

Never tried this though...never cared about trunk space lol

 

thats the idea behind Isobarik, lots of ways to do it.

its not my favorite design overall, but it does work.


I prefer to design the enclosure with speakers best interest in mind. Isobarik gets you NO gains other than a reduced box volume. which in SOME applications is underatandable.

I agree with ranger, box design and construction is key to making the speaker perform its best in any given enviorment, car or home audio.

Isobarik is a band aid to lack of knowledge and skills in box sesign in alot of installs.

Years ago, when Orion come out with the IB series of subs (infinite baffles), they worked great in that application. then i got to looking at the numbers (TS parameters) i run a few numbers and lo and behold, these damnned things would outperform a solobarik from kicker!. i was shovong 12inch subs into .4 cubes of volume and getting some great results!

I talked to orion about this, they were entusiastic at first, then they decided, no, thats not what they are for.........???????????/ ( the begininng of the end for them????) long story......

Oh well......


But, Ya!!!! i want to see an isobarik solobaric install!!!!!!

 

The solo's were never the most efficient subwoofer to start with.
Smaller enclosure with these subs = higher power handling and better cone control . These were the original small sealed enclosure subs. Put them in anything over .9 cuft with over 400w and you run into trouble. No need for isobaric setups with these . At the time these came out . Isobaric enclosures were the only way to get a small sealed enclosure . Kicker designed the solos around people wanting subs without sacrificing the entire trunk.

 

Subs won't fit in an enclosure half the required volume . Don't know if the orignal posters subs still have the sticker on the side. But installing the round solo's in an enclosure over .89cuft ( 12's ) will void warranty. Not like it really matters as the warranty expired long ago , but gives you an idea of exactly what these subs were designed for.

 

Yes i have to agree with the rest of the folks on this thread ...sealed box no more then 1.2 cubic feet(per sub) and no way on the Iso-baric and don't even think about free air applications I have had the exact same subs in the pictures back in the 90's I had them in a truck style angled box that i made in high school wood shop, when I sold my S10 in 1999 I sold it with the box in it and they still sounded as good as they did when they were new.
I never pushed more then 275watts per sub but I think (not sure it was a while ago) I think they can handle 550 max but reccomended 300 rms I wanted to keep them good so I never pushe more then 275. Which sounded great and yes they are wonderful for rock and metal. Use a Quality amp and wire it from the battery not RCA cables this creates a constant flow RCA can be interrupted and these subs thrive on consistency.
Hope I have been helpful.
The Raven

 

What do you mean to run them from the battery and not the rca cables...and what is this "creating constant flow rca and interruption"??

Makes no sense...hook them up how you would hook up any other sub and amp