Hello All

sup Jason, good to see you around here too.

Edit: I checked out your sub here's info that helps you decide your amp.

Power Handling Capacity (RMS): 250W
Power Handling Capacity (Peak): 750W

you want to get a amp that operats around RMS power, STAY AWAY from peak.

The Speaker has a resistance of 4 Ohm so you need a amp output of 250W @ 2 Ohms
(since the + and - on the speaker gets 2 Ohms each 2 + 2 = 4 get it?)

I did a quick search and I think this amp would be best for your speaker

JL Slash Series 250/1 Amp

250 W RMS @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)

 

That I wouldn't know.

 

wassup-

just for safety's sake, I'd stay away from capacitors at the level your talking about. if you say that your system is taxed by 30%, then a capacitor will only make that worse. - besides.. you won't need it, and you won't see any adverse effects on your system with a 1amp/1sub combo, especially not the type e's. it's a 4ohm svc sub that doesen't require a lot of power (so it's pretty efficient).


for a nice looking install that will compliment your sub, and do exactly what you want, I'd recommend the alpine mrd 650 or the mrd 1005. -either of those will do nicely.
^_^

oh, and dan.. how did you come up with those impedance figures? - not trying to be mean, and a 2ohm stable amp will work fine for this sub, but is not necessary, and I think someone may have fed you some bad info on how impedance values are determined..

 

I learned from when I was thinking about buying Kicker S12D subs and a member on team-2g showed me some wiring diagrams from rockford fosgate.

 

How is your electrical system down 30% ??

 

Good question!

What DO you mean by 30% ?

Is the alternator got a blown diode? regulator trashed? fusible link half ttoast? Runnin KC daylighters on the roof?

 

I SEE!

you want a little more umph from the engine......fair enough!

Welll, ya wanna get to the quickee mart .3 seconds faster, or have your stereo sound good?

Actually, it would probably only make a small difference in your alternators out[put, but it might be enough to make the thing do better, never know till ya try.

 

Well first thing you can do is upgrade the "big three"...just add on a:

Wire from your alternators output to the battery...fused of course
Wire from your battery to the chassis
Wire from your engine block to the chassis

Upgrade these three points of your electrical system will have it running at its best.

 

this is what I'm talking about, dan.

 

Dan what you said about that impedance thing makes absolutely no sense...your team is wrong...the type is a single 4 ohm sub...so Balla would need an amp that puts out over 400 watts at 2 ohms...at 4 ohm it would be halved.

Sorry but whatever you learned about the kickers is totally different...they are DUAL COIL.

Also...Haute...I drove through there this past weekend going to and from Lafeyette...still smells the same lol...brought back memories though in the apartments.

 

well, hell, azn,, come down this weekend, we'll be partying like madmen..

 

Whats goin on this weekend?

 

ok the speaker is 4 ohms, amp's output is 2 Ohms from what I was told.

on the speaker +terminal = 2 Ohms and -terminal = 2 Ohms so 2+2= 4Ohms to match the speaker or is that totally incorrect?

 

Caps are junk, the mrd 1005 is way too damn much, and i'm too tired to type.

 

lol...dan...im sorry...there is only one voice coil...and it is a 4 ohm coil....there really is no "positive" or "negative" of a speaker...doesn't matter which way the power comes in or out...but what will matter is the sound.

The + is not 2 ohms and the - is not 2 ohms....now say you have a dual 2 ohm woofer wired in series than yes the final load is 4 ohms...what you have been told is garbage if talking about a single voice coil...you also never said anything about the wiring if what you are talking about is dual coil.

Balla...as for that amp...it will do fine...actually it will work to your advantage because if you ever get another sub you can wire it up for 2 ohms putting out 400 watts...200 watts to each woofer.