Help

What vehicle is this for? What is the amp you have and does it have a built in LOC or do you have a separate one?

As requested Sandt38, I'll try to post here a little more often. Glad to help.

 

You will need special tools to remove the HU. On the front of the HU you will see some holes. The special tool inserts into the holes to release the unit. They can be found at Wal-Mart, or any auto parts store.

 

I believe many of those Fords, you can bend up some large paperclips, in absense of having the "proper tool for the job".

Essentially, the paperclips push into the holes... where they'll press against some spring-loaded clips... the spring loaded clips are what are holding the head unit into the dashboard.

That being said, I still haven't worked on a car yet, that didn't require my at least popping the center console's trim panel off the face of the dashboard to remove the head unit. Usually it's not much of a challenge... look closely for screws, they are usually hidden out of sight from a normal seating position... so looking up from the floor can help. Pull out the ashtray drawer or change compartment or whatever, screws can be hidden many places. When they are out, the trim panel likely has a few pressure clips as well that'll hold it in place, so gently pry on the panel to pop it off.

And do try to adopt the philosophy that "cutting factory wiring is a sin".

Someday, you may have cause to restore what you've done... believe me, don't hack it up.

 

If you do not have the Ford or Blaupunkt radio removal tools then we can make some for you. These tools look like the letter U. Take a length of straight coat hanger and bend it into this U shape. Slowly insert each key into the appropraite hole on each side of the factory deck. If anything you want to make sure that the key goes straight in. ONce it is in, gently apply some outwards pressure on the key to push the hidden spring clip in against the headunit. Do the same to the other side at the same time. This should allow the factory head to slip out of the dash. You may have to pull gently on the cd slot or tape slot to remove the headunit as the keys you made do not have the little grips on them that the factory tools have. Good luck with it. For radio wiring info have a look at this site. www.installdr.com

Rob @ Forbidden

 

or, if using a LOC and installing the amp in the trunk...

i just nab one of the speaker wires in the back and install the LOC in the trunk. if your only using a sub amp, you only need to grab one side

 

Line Output Converter.

My guess is that's the "box" you are talking about.
I've never, ever had luck with them.

I've found they'd often limit the output of the system, even with the gains maxed.

I've often had luck in these situations simply hard-wiring the speaker outputs straight into unattenuated RCA barrels. Feed the speaker output straight into the low level inputs of the amp.

"attempt at your own risk" however, this certainly isn't how it is designed.. and it's very possible that there could be a problem resulting, either from the HU or the amp. So be careful.

David Navone (www.davidnavone.com) sells LOC's that are supposed to be high quality. I've never tried them.
The only ones I've used that I have had success with are PAC's OEM-1 (not the OEM-2, which I haven't used).
It also provides a remote wire, to turn the amps on by.. which most LOC's don't, so that's nice. B)

 

I'd be a bit concerned about letting a dealership wire in an LOC...
They are mechanics - this is something that's basically outside their area of expertise.
Don't get me wrong, you might get lucky and find a mechanic like Seth, who happens to also be an audio guy...

But I get nervous when you bring something to a dealership that's outside the bubble of "stock replace & repair"... because that's inherently their work.

I'd be less nervous if you brought it to some shop that was accustomed to performing aftermarket / upgrade / hot rod work, because they would be more in the mindset of integrating aftermarket components, even electronic devices, and are more familiar with the long term implications of using this type of connection vs. that type of connection, etc.

Your best bet still may be the local stereo shop... but there's an area that's dangerous to go shopping for lowball estimates as well. Hit or miss on finding competence.

Of course, this is fundamentally why I started doing work myself...
...at least I can trust myself, I think things through before taking action, and I know exactly how much care I put into the project, and what potential weak spots may remain afterwards.

With a project like this... it's easy, I'd save your $15, and take the lady in your life out for dinner at Applebees.

 

Factory wire harnesses can be a beyotch.

It's easier than you think though...
If you are installing the amps in the trunk, and your rear speakers are in the trunk... why not install the LOC in the trunk?

Trust me, there's only 2 wires going to each rear speaker... makes it MUCH easier, and you'll only need a 6 foot length of RCA cable or so on top of it. B)

 

Have a look at this site www.installdr.com to see if the harness of your vehicle is similar to one of the ones lited there. If it is then you are off to the races. If it is not then chances are that you have a hidden factory amplifier in the vehicle and will either need to find it or as suggested go right to one of the speakers to grab the wires. It is fairly easy to do, just takes some time and patience.