Hi Folks, Need some help here, soon as possible would be great, as Im doing this right now, and cant find anything usefull, I have 1) US Amp Xterminator XT1000D 2) US Amp Xterminator XT1600.2 3) 2- Mobile Spec ProIce X Series DVC 500RPM Each 4) Planet Audio C/O 4 gauge W/G How should I hook these up? Right now, I have the subs wired straight, meaning + to + and - to - for each sub, using the 1000D amp.. The amp is one channel, but has 2 outputs, here is the specs for the 1600.2 Type: Class AB Monoblock Power Amplifier Ultra High Current MOSFET Devices MMT Regulated Power Supply 35 Nanosecond Switching Diodes High Capacity Power Transformer Multiple Bypass Capacitors on Incoming 12V Supply Time Delay Turn On with Opto-Coupled Muting Pulse Width Modulated Power Supply Thermal, Short Circuit and Reverse Polarity Protection High Efficiency Class AB Design Active Constant Current Bias Tracking Dynamic Power: 1600w RMS Power (2 Ohms): 2 x 400W RMS Power (4 Ohms): 2 x 200W RMS Power (4 Ohms Bridged): 1 x 800W THD: <0.03% Channel Seperation: 55dB Damping Factor: 250 Input Power Supply: 12-18 Volts DC Signal to Noise Ratio: >100db Frequency Response: 10hz to 50Khz -1.0dB Low Level Input Sensitivity: 20mv to 6v Selectable Crossover: HPF / FULL / LPF Continuously Variable Low-Pass Crossover 40-250Hz @ 24dB / Octave Continuously Variable High-Pass Crossover 40Hz-1KHz @ 12dB / Octave Subsonic Filter: 15-40Hz @ 24dB / Octave Bass EQ Control: 45hz - 0 to 12db Line Outputs Platinum-Plated RCA and Power Connectors 4AWG Power Connectors Indicators: Power, Protect Weight: 6KG Fuses: 3 x 20 Amps Dimensions (mm): 63.5(H) x 222(W) x 368(L) ------------------------------ 1000D amp Type: Class D Monoblock Power Amplifier Ultra High Current MOSFET Devices MMT Regulated Power Supply 35 Nanosecond Switching Diodes High Capacity Power Transformer Multiple Bypass Capacitors on Incoming 12V Supply Time Delay Turn On with Opto-Coupled Muting Pulse Width Modulated Power Supply Thermal, Short Circuit and Reverse Polarity Protection High Efficiency Class D Design Active Constant Current Bias Tracking Dynamic Power: 1000w RMS Power (1 Ohm): 500W RMS Power (2 Ohms): 150W RMS Power (4 Ohms): 75W THD: <0.1% Efficiency @ 4 Ohms: 86% Damping Factor: 95 Input Power Supply: 12-18 Volts DC Signal to Noise Ratio: >80db Frequency Response: 20hz to 500hz -1.0dB Low Level Input Sensitivity: 20mv to 6v Continuously Variable Low-Pass Crossover 40-250Hz @ 24dB / Octave Subsonic Filter: 15-40Hz @ 24dB / Octave Bass EQ Control: 45hz - 0 to 12db Remote Gain Control Line Outputs Platinum-Plated RCA and Power Connectors 8AWG Power Connectors Dual 8AWG Speaker Terminals Indicators: Power, Protect Weight: 4 KG Fuses: 1 x 40 Amps Dimensions (mm): 63.5(H) x 222(W) x 248(L) ----------------- As for the subs, I cant find a thing on the internet about them, but I know they rock and expensive. Think I paid $350 each for them, my wife got them for me, SURPRISE, Type thing, It was great, except for joint she got it done, Uggggggg.. They are no longer open, but wish she just gave me the money, and said, "Here go get a system" Anyways, They are Mobile Spec Pro-Ice X series, DVC and 1200 max I think it was, or 600 RMP.. Like I said, I tryed to find them on the internets, but nothing.. Anyways, Whats the best way to hook them up, to the amp, Because I think I can get more out of them if they are bridged maybe? Just wanted some experts to chime in on this if you have the time.. Thanks,
Hi Trance, Not sure, but think so.. Im calling mobile spec today to find out more about this sub.. Thanks for the reply
If so, set them to play at 8 ohms. Run them in parallel (both positives together and both negatives together) which will cut the ohm load to 4. Then take those and bridge your 1600.2 amp cutting the load in half again to 2 ohms which will give you that 400 rms x 2 that you want for your subs.
Hey Trance, you in a trance? lol OK, here is what I found out.. Mind you, I didnt hook this up.. I took a sub out this morning, oddly enough, (timing) and found them to be wired in Series, ( #1 woofer, Negative to positive- Negative to positive out ) same as #2 woofer, and have them hooked up to the D class amp, + - / - + ... Now, thru watching youtube just now, this makes it 8 ohm, no? The way the subs are wired, should give me 7 ohm actually.. Then, I have no idea about the amp hooked up right? Now, I would want to wire them like you said above, but that should give me 2 ohm, correct? Then I would bridge them to the amp, + / / + ?
That mono block is 1ohm stable for 500 watts, you should parallel the subs, if they're 4ohm. But you HAVE to find out if they are 4ohm dvc. If they are 2ohm you might burn your amp up. The only reason the 1000D has 2 sets of speaker terms is to make it easier to connect 2 subs instead of doing it at 1 of the subs, for example, say you had 2 subs in 2 different air spaces, you would have to go through the divider or double them up at a single set of terms. I hate to beat a dead horse but... are they 4ohm dvc subs?
Hey Kcox, thanks for the reply. I have no clue, I took them out to look for a number or something, and there isnt ANYTHING on the back, but MobileSpec.. I talked to a rep for MobileSpec, but still havent heard anything back yet. Im going to take a pic of them and email MobileSpec, and weight them, maybe can find out, I dont know.. Right now, they are wired in series. I know for a fact they are DVC, but the Ohms, I have to find out. They way they are hooked up now, they slam pretty good.. And I really need to tune the amp probably.. I cant even find anyone that has these, so are they good, that might be to expensive for most, or are they crap? *Shrugs Thanks again for the response, and Im working to get his figured out as fast as possible.. I have a durango, and getting ready to get new 6 * 9s and 5.5's,, but keeping factory cd player, its a 6 disc changer built in, so its pretty nice..
Awesome! If they're wired in series and are 4ohm dvc subs you should get a reading of 8ohms at the enclosure terminals. If they sound good to you what else matters?
OK, cool, Well, I think they have alot more to the subs, like not even close to whats possible. So thought If i got them down to 1ohm, or 2 then it would hit harder. BlueBerry Yum by Luda sounds really good. Just really was checking to see if I am maxed out on power output with the amp I have. The 1600 is going to be for my mids, and thats this week.. OK man, thanks again for the reply,
Im pretty sure those subs are 500 watts rms. It looks like they only make a 250 watt and a 500 watt subwoofer like yours. Your best bet would be to hit that 2 x 400 watts at 2 ohms with the 1600.2 to max out your subs potential safely. What kind of mid speakers would you hook up to that amp otherwise? Its pushing 200 watts x 2 at 4 ohms.. Not really meant for interior speakers unless you got some that I want to know about.
There is nothing wrong with over powering a sub with "rated power" or actual power. It's better to over power a sub than to under power it. You could put a set of alpine comp speakers on the 1600.2. The amp that's on my set says 170 watts X 2 @ 4ohm, lmao.
ok, so your saying the 1600 is better then the D1000? I was going to get alpine 6 by9s front doors and 5.5s for back doors If I run the 1600 for subs, can i use the other for the highs? Probably not ya.. So, in the end, the place i got the system are morons? Im looking to get the mids this week, so if you have any ideas, please let me know.. Thanks fellas,
If you want to use both amps you have to use the D1000 on the subs and the 1600 on the 6X9s. If you want to run the back set of speakers on an amp also, you maybe should have gotten a 4 channel amp, but it's not absolutely necessary. Put the power you already have to your speakers and see what it will do. But easy on the gain and no bass boost. Over powering a sub is sometimes called head room. It lets you have more power without clipping the amp. When you have to turn the gain up, there's more of a chance you will be putting a clipped signal to your speakers.
