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The Hiss

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Equilibrium, Oct 4, 2011.

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  1. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Hey, I'm having a little trouble with hissing in the splits whilst the headset is on, whether it's on 0 volume or max it's audible from anywhere in the vehicle. This is on any setting, AUX, CD, Bluetooth, Radio, or USB. When a song is played and is turned up you can hear the hiss between the silences in the songs. Once the car is turned on you can also hear what I believe to be alternator whine.

    Rig:
    2009 Ford Falcon XR6 Sedan
    Clarion CZ501 Deck
    Alpine SPR-50C (Two pair)
    Clarion WG2510 (x 2)
    Clarion XH5410 (x 2)
    Raptor 1 farad Capacitor
    4GA wiring kit (batt to boot)
    80amp and 5 Amp Fuse

    The setup:
    The 4GA power and remote wire run down the drivers side.
    Three RCA's down the passenger side.
    Standard wire from each split to the amp.
    80amp fuse under the hood for the cap/amps, 5amp for head unit also.
    4GA earth from amps to cap, Cap to chasis.
    Headset grounded to firewall.

    What I've tried:
    Tried moving grounds.
    Checked gains.
    Checked secure cabling.
    Had battery tested and clean terminals.

    Any help is highly appreciated!!!

    Would inline filters on the RCA's and power be worth looking at??

    IMAG0090.jpg
    IMAG0089.jpg
    IMAG0088.jpg
    IMAG0087.jpg
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 4, 2011
    #1
  2. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Oh, The headset receives memory power direct from the battery through the 5amp fuse and the main power comes off the cigarette lighter feed, This is all through a relay. Please excuse the messy boot wiring, I'm am yet to make the cover plate :-S This is also my first attempt at a proper car audio install so let me know if anything is not as it should be. Don't get me wrong tho, IT PUMPS!!! haha
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2011
    Equilibrium, Oct 4, 2011
    #2
  3. wingless

    wingless Full Member

    Start off w/ moving the steering wheel to the left side, where it belongs.

    What happens if the returns are brought up to the battery connection, instead of to the chassis?

    Try tapping off the head unit power and ground at the same point as the amp, up near the battery.

    The voltage on the battery is "clean". Both the supply and the return should be connected as close to the battery as possible.

    Where the stereo power connects to 12V and ground should have the current feeding other stuff on the vehicle matched. That is, if the tap-off point for the 12V includes the dome lamp current, then the tap-off point for the ground should also include the dome lamp current return. When one has different than the other it can cause issues. That is why close connections are best.

    For safety, use an Adel clamp to secure the 80A power feed cables near where they connect to the amp. That helps to prevent a loose, high-current wire from dangling around, if for example a garden rake in the trunk (boot) dislodges it from the terminal strip.

    For my wiring I label both ends of every wire and create a schematic, so I can figure-out later on what is what.
     
    wingless, Oct 4, 2011
    #3
  4. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    HAHAHA classic! Will run through all this on the weekend man, Thanks.
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 5, 2011
    #4
  5. ahoaudio

    ahoaudio New Member

    most of the time its the deck caps going bad in it and will cause this noise
     
    ahoaudio, Oct 5, 2011
    #5
  6. Promodmerc

    Promodmerc Full Member

    You know I was going to say that the problem was that the steering wheel was on the wrong side but I didn't want to be smart
    aleck to a new member:D

    I'm glad someone else thinks like me :lol:
     
    Promodmerc, Oct 5, 2011
    #6
  7. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    LOL @ left handed steering wheel! FAIL!!! "no he didn't" "yeah he did" :p thanks for help guys n or girls.
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 5, 2011
    #7
  8. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Might get a second headset and test the front splits on it. Oh and did you(Wingless) mean run 4ga earth from boot back to the battery terminal or just the head unit?? I was advised that it's best to keep your earth length under 3-4ft. Is it worth trying RCA filters??
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 5, 2011
    #8
  9. wingless

    wingless Full Member

    My suggestion is to have both the power and the ground close to the battery, for the amp and for the head unit, so that those two power conductors feeding the sound system have identical current feeding other car stuff.
     
    wingless, Oct 6, 2011
    #9
  10. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Ok, Thanks man. Will give this a go tonight/tomorrow.
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 6, 2011
    #10
  11. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    5m of 4ga earth cost $45 AUD :-O haha, That's what you get for keeping money locally.

    IMAG0099.jpg
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 6, 2011
    #11
  12. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Yet to put sheathing on the heads and solder.
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 6, 2011
    #12
  13. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Ok, so I have put in the 4ga earth from the capacitor to the battery and also have put an earth from the headset to the battery, STILL HISSING :'-( I have just noticed that when I short the headset casing to the chassis the alternator whine and hissing is WAY louder. Does this prove helpful for diagnosis?? Is somthing earthing where it should not be??
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 7, 2011
    #13
  14. wingless

    wingless Full Member

    Why are there two big lugs on that cable? One goes to the negative battery lug connection, where does the other go?

    Is anything at all connected to the chassis now?
     
    wingless, Oct 7, 2011
    #14
  15. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    The lug fits directly onto the top of the capacitor as shown in the pictures :) I went full size everything to future proof the instal. No, nothing goes to the chassis at all. Everything's on the battery terminal + and -.
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 7, 2011
    #15
  16. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    I just wanted to ask while im at it, I have one of these running in 4ch and the other in 2ch(mono). What would you recommend for the frequencies and such??

    Terminal End
    xh5410c.jpg
    Settings
    xh5410p.jpg
     
    Equilibrium, Oct 7, 2011
    #16
  17. wingless

    wingless Full Member

    How many millivolts AC are on the amp power lugs and on the head unit power connection when operating with low volume setting but still hearing the hiss?
     
    wingless, Oct 7, 2011
    #17
  18. Equilibrium

    Equilibrium Full Member

    Equilibrium, Oct 7, 2011
    #18
  19. wingless

    wingless Full Member

    What happens to the hiss when the RCA inputs to the amp are disconnected?

    If it is clean w/ no RCA connection to the head unit, then how does it sound with a battery-powered audio device feeding the RCA input to the amp?
     
    wingless, Oct 7, 2011
    #19
  20. wingless

    wingless Full Member

    What happens when the speakers are driven from the head unit and not the amp?
     
    wingless, Oct 7, 2011
    #20
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