How to check the airspace and port tune on enclosure

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by Darkass04Ext, Aug 14, 2010.

  1. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    I had someone design me an enclosure and i want to double check the box specs. I have the 3d drawing and measurements since i had the material cut. Im unhappy with the sub output, so im trying to eliminate each item it could be to find the issue. The enclosure is going into an 2004 chevy trailblazer ext (w/3 row seating). It measures 45"w x 11"h x 17"d w 2 slot ports 1.75x9.5
    thanks
     
  2. monster71

    monster71 Full Member

    Not sure this helps but I have the spec sheet for the 10 in type r in my hands and it reads:
    Optimal vented box-0.6-1.25
    external box dimension-12.5"x14.5"x17.25"
    Vent area-11"x1
    Vent length- 22 in
     
  3. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    I need two more pieces of information.
    First how long is the port?
    Second, is the box divided (in other words is this two boxes in one)?

    Please be exact on the Port length (within an inch) and I need to know if its divided so that I can determine the port tuning
     
  4. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    here is the drawing of the enclosure. from what i can tell, the port is 14.5"d x 1.75"w x 9.5"h. It then turns in almost 3.5", it is also a single chamber.

    this enclosure was made wide and shallow to fit under the rear cargo shelf in a trailblazer ext.
     

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  5. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Let see what we have, the usable (not including port area) interior space is (everything is approx) around 3.3 cu ft, thats good.

    Port tuning is around 30 Hz, why? A tuning around 35 to 36 would have done a better job. But it is acceptable. And its not our problem.

    Our problem is that the port is in the wrong place, it needs to be on the baffle board with the speaker. In other words, the speaker and the port need to face the SAME direction.

    Facing the speaker and the port the same way will fix your problem, also face the speaker and port to the rear of the vehicle
     
  6. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    seems i have an issue... looks like im gonna need to have a new box designed (by someone else). ive already made this one, so it looks like im off to lowes or HD for more mdf. this is starting to get really frustrating. im on my 3rd box going on #4 now, and everyone i go to messes up the specs.

    is there anyway for me to save this box? the height is too short to front mount the subs. can i move the ports to the top? wouldnt the port size change if on the top, since it would be longer? at its current shape i only have about 2" of airspace between the hatch and box, is this ok?

    thanks alot
     
  7. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    The box in your drawing would have been OK if they had the ports in the right place.

    As far as the distance between the hatch and the box, its OK but can we get one more inch to be on the safe side?

    Lets readjust our tuning to 36 Hz. You'll be much happier, more output.

    Are your woofers 10s or 12s? I'm gonna use you dimensions with a few minor adjustments.

    I will get back to you soon, I'm a teacher and I have to go back to work tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2010
  8. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    i have 2 10" alpine type R (swr-1022d), they are older (around 06/07)
    Sub specs: ported box - .6-1.25 cuft
    looks like the box was kinda big to begin with.
    ok, measured the cargo area:
    the box measurements can be NO bigger than these, this is with an extra inch of space you asked for
    depth- 14" (the seat is on an angle so there is 2" more at the bottom. 14"/16")
    height- 16" (could do 17", if had to but up kinda high)
    width- 45"
    hope i gave you everything you need
     
  9. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    OK, lets go with a box that has the outside dimensions of 45-inches long by 12-inches tall by 14-inches deep.

    Now I want a little more port size than what you have in your drawing. Lets go with a set up just like you have. But now our ports will be 10.5 inches tall by 1-inch wide. The port needs to be 12-inches long.

    Top and Bottom board 45 x 13-1/4
    Back board 45 x 10-1/2
    Sides (2) 12-1/2 x 10-1/2
    Port boards (2) 11-1/4 x 10-1/2 (if the port board is between 11 x 10-1/2 and 11-1/2 x 10-1/2 we are OK)

    Baffle board is cut only after the rest of the parts are put together

    Baffle board 45 x 12

    Follow the directions here, just remember that you have a bigger box and you have a 1-inch wide port on each end.
    http://www.caraudiotalk.com/audio-forum/showthread.php?t=7031

    JUST LIKE YOUR Sketches, only the dimensions have changed slightly
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2010
  10. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    This sketch is not to scale, this is a top view
     

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  11. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    This box will work, There are so many "experts" out there, its scary. When someone says they "tune low to make it hit low", run, they have no clue. NONE What-so-ever.

    Anyway build this one, you'll like it.
     
  12. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    on my current drawing the ports turn in also, is that not needed on this design?
    hold back the laughs guys.... what is a baffle board? :confused: this the board w/ the subs & ports? why does this get cut afterwards?

    do is still add my corner bracing or any other type of bracing? for assembly i used coarse thread 15/8" drywall screws w/ pl adhesive (water cleanup). is this good or should i use something else?
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2010
  13. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    No we do not need to turn the ports in. They will be long enough just like they are.

    The baffle board is the board that the speakers mount to, and in most cases the ports are located on the baffle board. Also, its cut last so that its attached to the outside parts of the box. This adds to the strength of the box.

    Yes please add the braces. Yes the drywall screws are good, their main purpose of the screws is to hold the boards together until the glue drys. As far as the glue, I used Elmers wood glue. But any good glue will work.

    Speaking of braces, lets add a couple to that box

    Atleast two, three would be good. We dont want the large back board or the baffle to flex

    Braces 10-1/2 x 4 or 10-1/2 x 3
    Cut cut two, three, or four (look back at my box building thread and look for the braces)

    An EXAMPLE
     

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    Last edited: Aug 17, 2010
  14. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    Thanks Ranger.... I still havent had a chance to build this enclosure yet. Hopefully within the next couple weeks, funds are pretty low. I really appreciate all of your time helping me with this, i was getting really close to just pulling it all from the truck. I will let you know how i like the enclosure when its all finished.

    One last thing, when building the box should i put the mdf strips in the corners. The strips to "smooth" out the corners (like in my drawing)

    Thanks again
     
  15. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Yes definately put them in.

    I really think you'll be suprised, that box will perform well. Definately build it and let me know what you think
     
  16. TE5LA

    TE5LA Guest

    The side the ports are on (as long as they exit into the listening area) is not highly critical. How many home subwoofers have the port on the bottom or the back side of the enclosure? Plenty. I agree, the side with the woofer is optimum, but not critical.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 9, 2010
  17. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    But I'm not talking about a home subwoofer, I'm talking about a car. Much less volume in the car. Port Location IS critical in a car.
     
  18. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    I tend to actually agree with this ...

    But the fact of the matter is that by utilzing reflective surfaces in a vehicle, corner loading and the likes. you can and will achive more boom for your buck... Not that it is musically accurate by any means...but it sure can make or break how hard it hits compared to your buddies car....


    It all aint meant for musical accuracy anymore........lol!
     
  19. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    build Rangers box! it will slam. I promise you
     
  20. Darkass04Ext

    Darkass04Ext Full Member

    As bad as it sounds, I still havent built this enclosure yet. No time or money.

    Ranger, would there be a difference if i did a single port between the 2 subs. i saw a friends enclosure that he had made and i liked the look mainly because my ports would be so thin. thanks