New system, 4 12" subs, one amp not working protect light mystery.

Discussion in 'Car Stereo Amplifiers' started by stickytak, Aug 10, 2010.

  1. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    Ok, so I had a 4 sub 2 amp system. Just plugged it all in today, finally.

    And the amps were working for a minute, and then one of them went into protect, just the protect light. (When the amp turns on, both power and protect turn on and the protect is supposed to dim out. but now the power dims out.) But the other one was fine and playing notes. So i switched all the wires, subs and all, between the two amps, to see if it was wire, but it wasn't. same amp was in protect while the other worked. The amp goes into protect as soon as it turns on with no RCAs or speakers. only 12v, ground, and the remote.

    basically I discovered this was my used amp, because I had the 4 subs on one of these amps, but discovered I could add another amp safely. so the old amp is the one going into protect. But when I say old, I mean like 3 months. I see nothing wrong on the inside of the amp, however i'm no circuit board genius.

    Could it be the fuses somehow? They arn't burnt through or even scorched at all, but could that maybe put it into protect?

    I dunno. I'm stumped. Hopefully its covered under warranty.
     
  2. Ranger SVO

    Ranger SVO Full Member

    Need a lot more info. What amps? How are the speakers wired and how are the amps wired to the speakers? I wonder if the amps going into protect because of an impedance problem.
     
  3. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    MA audio all around. 4 subs all MA120XE's 2 amps all HK898's.

    its not impedance. I got them running 1 sub per channel at 2 ohms each. And like I said, one worked, one went into protect for an unknown reason. so i switched all the wires from the working one the the protect one, just to see the protect light still on.

    I'm not new to car audio or anything, just to this site, so the typical things you can pretty much rule out.

    The problem is inevitably the amp, the only thing wrong on the inside I can see is it looks a little toasty in some spots, but this amp was NEVER used under impedance or over power. and it went into protect during a low volume test.
     
  4. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    I have both amps running off the same ground, but is it still possible that maybe its a bad ground?

    Wasn't the ground. That was just something I read. It's gotta be something on the inside of the amp...

    I read that it might be the output transistors because the protect light is on but not the power?
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  5. ericj

    ericj Full Member

    That would be my guess. They're pretty cheap to replace. Take out both the PNP & NPN transistors and test them with a DMM. If any are bad, replace them all.
     
  6. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    where can i buy them from?
     
  7. ericj

    ericj Full Member

    You can order them at jameco.com. Make sure to replace them all.
     
  8. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    Im no good with circuit boards, so how can I tell which transistors to buy? and do i just clip the prongs and solder new transistors on? also, how can I tell if its pnp or npn?

    looks like on one side i have C4487, C4487, A1694, A1694, FMG22S, FMG22S, IRFZ48V, IRFZ48V, IRFZ48V, IRFZ48V.

    So I assume its identical on the other side. but I cant find these at that site, besides the IRFZ48V.

    I assume the other ones are transistors, they have 3 prongs, just bigger. I could be wrong.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  9. ericj

    ericj Full Member

    Best way to find out is to Google the part numbers to find out, the NPN & PNP transistors will have different part numbers. If you need further help, please post a pic of the board with the heat sink rails removed.

    I'd suggest you get some desoldering braid or a suction bulb to remove the transistors from the board and then solder the new ones back in. You have to fully remove them to test them correctly, but do not power on the amp without them touching the heatsink with the rail secured. You'll fry them within a few seconds in open air if you apply power to the amp.

    Once the new ones are soldered back into the board, apply heat sink compound, screw down the rail, and test your amp.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2010
  10. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    I started google-ing them, I think I might just send it to car tunes or something, if thats all it is are the transistors, it shouldn't cost to much.
     
  11. stickytak

    stickytak Member

    Here's a panoramic of one side. as you can see the far right ones are a little toasty. the nest two are closeups of the far side ones on both sides. They might have gotten a little to much moisture to them? because we had EXTREMELY humid days recently, like light rain and sunny all day a couple times. but they have looked like that for a few weeks now and still worked. They look worse in the closeups than they actually are by the way.

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