4 Fi Audio IB3 18's walled off 15Hz tune in a VAN BUILD LOG

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by kryptonitewhite, Feb 28, 2010.

  1. liftedranger08

    liftedranger08 Full Member

    Is this thing done yet? :) :) Keep it coming man. Its looking good and should get down nicely when its done.
     
  2. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    get down? down where? down to like 10Hz? :D :D
     
  3. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    2 more wall boards... these 2 fit outside the drivers cuz I'm running outta room between the subs and ceiling support/seat stopper

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    yes could have measured out 18.5" but I wanted them centered perfectly

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    check..pass

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    god i hate cutting im so tired of it. poor giu that one the 21" MX makin that curved box.. f that

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  4. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    Got box flex?! Holy shiza! haha thats sturdy
     
  5. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    dont forget there's a 2x6 frame that goes behind that. But, all that MDF won't be so tough after I cut out the 20" holes... will be awful thin.
     
  6. DatDude08

    DatDude08 Full Member

    Have your neighbors asked you what the hell is going on at your place?
     
  7. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    I have 3-10 people a DAY come up to me! I had 3 different people today. I am in the hood, so every time, they always ask if I smoke weed too. weird!
     
  8. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    well if they really hate duct tape that bad, im really trying to **** them off now. Now I got BLUE painters tape, a really sloppy resin job..BTW I spilled and dripped it all over my seats and dash and didn't even try to clean it up. so sad. MORE FOAM! Hate on that, cuz Great Stuff loves me :D.


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  9. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    ive got a buddy that bought a car that came with old a/d/s components. the wires on 1 tweet were cut short, none to be seen on the other. my camera is smarter than I am so I take blurry pics... but how do we crack it open to get to the leads?

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    oh and someone pointed out I have a cracked motor..my old sub.. this sucks. I bet I know when it happened too, a bunch of guys were over checkin out my stuff.. 1 was checkin out the basket and showing it off, not very delicately like "oh its blown its all junk now" or something and set it down a bit hard.

    MAN that sucks :(
     
  10. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    too bad about the resin on he seats and dash AND the basket... i'd just like to know where the hell do you get all the time to do all of the work? looking good!
     
  11. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    im not even trippin bout the dash or seats, but the sub has me bummed :D
     
  12. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    so ive got another problem, all 5 wall boards have to go in before I can rebuild the frame behind them, trapping them in.. The front support doesnt leave much room... so 1st in front I have a 2x6 caulked to the floor and screwed, and 2 2x6 supports going from that to the roof holding up he ceiling. They are caulked in place and couldnt be moved anyway because they hold the roof up.

    Then 6-8 inches behind that the 2x6 frame needs put in before I can caulk and screw the 5 layers on. That only leaves 1-2" working room. I only have the 2 front baffle boards in so far and I had to pound them in. There's no way to caulk and screw th layers to the frame 1 by one.

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  13. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    what about wood gluing each layer in place? could that be possible?
     
  14. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    well thats kind of the plan..i use caulk instead of glue, but I was hoping to screw them in layer by layer, but i think thats what i'll do... just put glue between then pound them together... just no screws..they are so tight, once the caulk cures i wont need screws anyway
     
  15. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    liquid nails FTW!
     
  16. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    thats my plan but Ive got an engineer dedicating a lot of help now and hes saying glue lol..caulk is too visouse.. AH!
     
  17. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    only using PRO from here out, the 375 wont cure.

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    got all 5 in, each one needs pounded in place. I could trim them, but then they wouldnt be as strong. Each peace is flimsy now with the 5 holes...but when I pound them in they are stronger with the pressure on them. I can still grab all 5 together and move them by hand though.

    Here's the probem. I have all 5 in together. There is no way to separate them, to push 1 layer back against the frame at a time. Each one needs pounded...cant get between to pound. Cant pound the whole thing all at once, needs too much pressure.

    So I was considering what someone else suggested..all thread. If the frame were strong enough, which it's not, I'd use it as an anchor and do it like a pulley puller. 4 large bolts, tighten them in a pattern to keep pulling tight. But it would tear the frame apart.

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  18. kryptonitewhite

    kryptonitewhite Full Member

    i think my haters post scared the helpers off. i dont think a lot of people realize there are 3 other forums I post on, so you may not see some of the rude things people say that are not helpful at all. You also may not see how appreciative i try to be to those that are helpful. Yep, now I am down to only 4 forums.
     
  19. Khayman

    Khayman Full Member

    You could put stiffeners on the assembly before you pull it altogether with the all thread. The all thread idea is a good one, it would probably also be beneficial if you used more then 1, maybe 4 (1 at each corner) so you could control the forces a little better and not break anything. But if you screwed a full sheet to the 5 sheets, that would add a lot of strength maybe allowing you to pull it all together without breaking anything.


    This all of course is only applicable if you are talking about what I think you are talking about.

    For securing the part to the plastic, they have plastic welders that essentially melt the plastic and when it cures it creates a chemical bond between the plastics. i am not sure the name off hand, but I know graingers carries it. You could also try a 5-minute epoxy, that stuff is crazy strong.