help, no sound from my sub

Discussion in 'Car Subwoofers' started by bgmike, Dec 27, 2008.

  1. bgmike

    bgmike Full Member

    hey im new here, ive had amp and sub in my car for about two years now. this is gonna be long............

    i had an MA audio amp and sub, but i recently jus got a new amp from Kenwood. i still have the MA sub, the sub was blown but still worked and i just put glue so it wouldnt sound so bad. so last week it blue both fuses, the protection fuse and the one on the amp, i replaced them and the sub didnt work bridged but it did w/o being bridged so i had it like the for a day.

    Yesterday i rewired it to be bridged and i work but stopped right away and then i put it back to not bridged and now it doesnt work at all. my bro had this sub before me and gave it to me, we both pushed it pretty hard. could it be that i need to get a new one? my amp still turns on...
     
  2. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    sounds like its dead.
     
  3. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    time for a new sub!
     
  4. bgmike

    bgmike Full Member

    ok. man im broke and idt i could get one soon. at least it aint the amp. the amp is 500w rms, any recomendation on a sub that could handle that?
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2008
  5. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    500 @ how many ohms?
     
  6. bgmike

    bgmike Full Member

    # 2-channel car amplifier
    # 170 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms (250 watts x 2 at 2 ohms)
    # 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged output at 4 ohms (4 ohm stable in bridged mode)
    # CEA-2006 compliant
    # high-pass (12 dB per octave) and low-pass (24 dB per octave) filters variable from 50 to 200 Hz
    # variable bass boost (0-18 dB at 40 Hz)
    # cooling fan
    # MOSFET power supply
    # speaker-level inputs with signal sensing turn-on
    # preamp-level inputs and outputs
    # fuse rating: 40A x 1
    # 8-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
    # 13-3/4"W x 2-1/4"H x 9-3/8"D

    its a kenwood kac-7204... also i have a sealed box for a 12"....
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2008
  7. bgmike

    bgmike Full Member

    only one sub and a 12", i have a sealed box. i have about 80 to spend on for the moment, the Hfi and the powerbass are more in my budget but i dont wanna buy something cheap and then it will blow again, do you how good the quality is on these subs? the e3 looks nice doesnt seem bad.

    i have JL sub but it got wet since i left in the garage and it was torn. i wanna try it but kinda scared to mess up my amp. when i took it off it still worked.
     
  8. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    if u get the kicker, you will need a D2 coil configuration so you can bridge the amp. then you will need to be sure that you are easy on the gain cause the RMS on the sub is 400 instead of 500 like the amp. I would also suggest that you build your own box. you will be MUCH happier with the output, if you like loud bass.
    On this forum most of us are after SQL, which is a blend of Sound Quality and SPL.
     
  9. bgmike

    bgmike Full Member

    building a box doesnt sound so bad, but for the moment ill keep the one i have. my amp has LPF and HPF, what are they for and do i really need it?
     
  10. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    it filters out the frenquencies. you want it on LPF
     
  11. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    lpf is a lowpass filter for subs,and hpf is a highpass filter for mids and highs.
     
  12. Eleu

    Eleu Full Member

    depending on where you live i might have a replacement Ma for you, i have a 120XE spare 12 DVC 4ohm per. Where abouts are you?
     
  13. bgmike

    bgmike Full Member

    Massachusetts.... kinda far from you, thanks for the offer.