The Black Death

yea I will try that next because last time I was going to clean it the carb was tooo hot to gas and spray into at the same time.
I dont have any pics of it on photobucket yet because my internet wont hold up to uploading them I have satelite and it only lets me use sooo much data but I will try to post some up tomorrow. I like to think its a pretty nice. just got it painted silver got 17in wheels off an 07 mustang on it, newer headlights, shelby racing front lower valance just have my trans cooler mounted on little ugly in front of the radiator so dont really want to take pics of it like that til I get that mounted right. but I will post some anyways. need to finish up the interior and then the system comes... hoping to get a 200amp alt as my present for my birthday and christmas because I already have all the equipment I need... is there a lighter alternative to mdf? because idk if my cars suspension can handle all the weight.

 

my dad and i restored a 65' black vinyl hard top. it was originally a 289 HiPo but we got it with a decently built 351 c6 tranny and 9" rear end all from a 69'. I was supposed to keep it and drive it but my dad sold it cause he knew I'd be racing it and making it way faster.

 

I want 351 heads on mine with some boring and a new cam that would make my engine scream and also a c6 tranny would be real nice. but I dont want to switch out my aluminum driveshaft its like a quarter of the weight of the original one. my car doesnt lose any traction when I floor it from a stop but if im rolling like at 15mph and floor it... it wont stop burning out til I let off the gas. and it stays in a straight line. was your 65 loud with that set up? I have magnaflows and it isnt tooo loud but really deep. makes car alarms go off like no other.

 

The only way to actually clean the carb and solve the problem involves taking it out, and dismantling it and cleaning each individual piece. 70 an hour to diagnose it... that's cheap, and a diagnosis only gets charged for one hour on average fyi. honestly sometimes it seems like they are out to only screw you over, when you have to remember that they have to make money somehow.

It would sort of be like an installer showing you how to install a system. They probably wouldn't do it, simply because they are using that time when they could be making money to help a non paying individual. Because they wouldn't tell you how to do your job, and then if they knew you would screw it up, they get yelled at for trying to "get more money out of you" or getting yelled at because they screwed it up, and think that you intentionally did something to screw them up so they would have to take it to you. It is a lose lose situation.

Okay, back to the point at hand. A carb can get very tricky,and honestly to know for sure you should take it to a carb specialist, More than likely they will answer your questions, and 99% of them have a warranty on their work.

I would advise against any major carb work on your own as some carbs have over 400 individual pieces, my weber on my jeep had 350 and doing one thing can ruin not just a carb but also your car.

Just some food for thought. Not saying anything bad about what these guys are saying, but if you get beyond priming the carb or things like that, then you need to consider taking it to a person that that is all they do.

 

well out here where I live it would take more than an hour because I drove around for about that long and still the problem hadnt occured because its like 70 to 60 degrees right now and its really windy... the guy said theyd probably look at it for an hour in the shop and then drive it around til the problem came up again. then the charge for work if they do anything... im not saying its alot but I cant afford that right now. and they do need to make money...they did tell me enough to say its not the coil. so if anything id look into a carb rebuild or a new carb since its like 150 to get it rebuilt and there arent any specialist close.

 

yeah I understand where you are coming from. well if cleaning it doesn't fix it look into that rebuild, because it's a lot cheaper. But obviously, go down the list of things that you can do yourself, that way you know what you are looking at. And do a lot of reading on carbs, and then you might be able to do a little work yourself. Those SAdesign books are really good for things like that.

 

sorry the engine bay is dirty didnt but the little hose on the overflow nozzle and made a mess when we had the copper radiator in there before.
its going back to paint soon because it needs some parts to get done again bad body work in some places. but it looks good.
yea I will clean it... couldnt find my carb cleaner things today... so I will get some tomorrow.
ummm there is a hole on the bottom on my rear end. there is supposed to be plug or something in there huh? it looks like it mightve come off and we will need to fill that thing back up maybe thats my transmission problem...

 

alright bigger issue now.. that hole on the rear end doesnt need a plug... but its leaking fluid from the sides ends where the brakes/wheels bolt on... but it seems fine. how do I check the fluid? would this be some kind of seal problem?

 

car looks good! I had a 66 mustang before, automatic with a straight 6. looks like you did some work on the rear quarter panels there.

where exactly is the hole? in the rear differential? are you leaking differential fluid now? there's a bolt right on the differential housing of the rear end that you take off and you can check the fluid. if it's leaking near the the brakes then that sounds like a seal to me, which shouldn't be a major fix.

 

Thanks ive had it for like 3 year going onto 4 in december putting it together piece by piece... yeaaa it used to be a drag car so it had the fender flares... once I get enough money I hope to get the wider staggered wheels in the back so the flares will serve a purpose and make it look cleaner. ohhh the hole is on the bottom but nothing it leaking from there... one of the housing bolts wasnt tight so I tightened to stop the leak there. I found that bolt to check the fluid and I will check it tomorrow when its light out and out of the garage. its leaking by the brakes yea. its a seal but nothing has really come out or at least I dont think so but we wont know til tomorrow because it runs great and the shop the checked the pumpkin itself says it looks in really good shape so those seals just probably wore out.

 

nice lookin ride.

 

definitely sounds like a seal. or a hole in your brake line/ something wrong with your brakes . Do they feel squishy at all or do your brakes still feel good.

 

thanks... I think its the brake line because I got under to look at it and the fluid is pretty clear and surely enough its beading out of where it connects to the caliper. so I just tightened and we are good I think. still should get the seals checked. how much work is that? to change out the seal there?

 

changing out the seal isn't bad... there can sometimes just be a lot of work involved... second question for you... do your brakes feel any different...

 

well the seal is fine got underneath and jacked it up to see what was really going on... and there was only 2 out of 4 bolts on where the disc goes onto the rear end so after a couple hundred miles it got a bit loose I tightened the two it had and on monday i will go in my dads car to buy the rest of the bolts. because the tightening stopped the leak. so it wasnt the brakes cause they feel fine.

 

geeze, maybe I should stop this whole tech school thing and become a dentist lol/jk.

while you are under there, give everything a once over just to make sure everything is kosher or what might need to be replaced soon.

 

nahhhh I think you are good staying in the tech school... you are in cali for school right?

well I will tighten things around that I can get to... calipers are new... all the brake and gas lines are new... u joints and driveshaft new. shocks are new all bushings are new and still in tact from what I saw... so monday with all the minor adjustments we will see how she runs.

 

Nice !!

 

thanks.
electro... might need some box help... I got alot of sub and power options... in the garage are 2 10in mtx 9500's... 2 12in jl w7's... one kicker cvr 12in... and like 3 15in free air subs... for now I can only use sooo much power... because the stock alt is only 65 amps. but I have the biggest duralast battery available for my car... amp options are a four channel that can put out 800 watts with some of the 15in subs... 400 to the mtx setup. and I have 2 jl 1000/1 that I cant use til I get my 200 amp alt... so maybe you could design something for the mtx's or one... I will get you measurements in the morning.

 

Sure, no problem. I have a 55 amp alternator in my volvo lol, hopefully i can get at least a 120 amp but won't be for a while. Not many choices for this car, can be pricey. I just ran 1/0 gauge wire tonight so that's going to help big time, less resistance, less wasted power.

Mtx makes nice subs and they can take a lot of abuse lol.