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design for 2 kicker 12 L7s

Discussion in 'Subwoofer Box and Custom Fabrication' started by psycho_maniac, Jul 16, 2008.

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  1. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    [​IMG]
     
    aznboi3644, Jul 19, 2008
    #21
  2. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    Thanks azn i might start this by the end of the month or for sure next month. will post the best pics for progress as i can as everybody seems to like this design.
     
    psycho_maniac, Jul 20, 2008
    #22
  3. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    also the other box shouldn't have fallen apart...the enclosure failure must have been because of improper joints
     
    aznboi3644, Jul 20, 2008
    #23
  4. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    well then any tips on how to make this next enclosure more sturdy? i think it could be because i used 1/2" mdf and the crap screws i used. ill be using 3/4 and some really hard screws called saberdrive http://www.saberdrive.com/img/screw.gif
     
    psycho_maniac, Jul 22, 2008
    #24
  5. cccullen

    cccullen Full Member

    I think that was your problem. you only used 1.2" MDF. Always use at least 3/4" MDF when making a box. I think you should be in pretty good shape. azn's design looks really good. Make sure you predrill before putting the screws in and use a very good wood glue and silicone caulk when you make your box.

    Have fun!!!
     
    cccullen, Jul 22, 2008
    #25
  6. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    ok there is no lowes around but we have a menards. the sheets are only like 25 bucks i think for 3/4. think they will be good quality?
     
    psycho_maniac, Jul 22, 2008
    #26
  7. G3n3R@1

    G3n3R@1 Full Member

    From what I've seen mdf is mdf. The price is normal.
     
    G3n3R@1, Jul 22, 2008
    #27
  8. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I had no idea you used .5" MDF on your last enclosure...lol

    With .5" MDF you HAVE to use extensive bracing or fiberglass the inside. The design I made you last time was for 3/4" MDF

    with 3/4" MDF, proper joint fitment, good glue, and clamping pressure is all you need...I don't even use screws anymore most of the time unless the joint is not perfect and needs to be pulled together...other than that glue and brad nails is all I use.
     
    aznboi3644, Jul 22, 2008
    #28
  9. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    would there be a difference if i had the subs facing up again? or would that require a different box design? i thought like right above where the "box cut out" markings are and not off center this time as i have the braces in the box. i think i measured the wood and forgot that the subs stick out a little bit so it would be touching the hatch i think.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2008
    psycho_maniac, Jul 24, 2008
    #29
  10. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    with this design's depth how close is the port to the hatch??
     
    aznboi3644, Jul 24, 2008
    #30
  11. jonnyv713

    jonnyv713 The Young Gun of CAT

    dont you need like 4 inches between the port and other obstacles for best performance? i think i remember hearing that somewhere.
     
    jonnyv713, Jul 24, 2008
    #31
  12. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    4" is just an arbitrary number
     
    aznboi3644, Jul 25, 2008
    #32
  13. G3n3R@1

    G3n3R@1 Full Member

    my buddies 13 Ov.2s are about 2" from the side of the car and they perform just fine.
     
    G3n3R@1, Jul 25, 2008
    #33
  14. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    i dont know right now but ill check tonight.
     
    psycho_maniac, Jul 25, 2008
    #34
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