Code 111 and Code 332

Clear the code and see if it returns, check all the vacuum lines going to the egr. If they are all good and the code comes back its probably gunked up preventing it from opening all the way.

 

What year is your rig, and do you have emissions?

Get rid of it if you can, it's pretty simple to do.
It robs performance

EGR block-off plate. (or simply modify the valve to make it inoperative)
EGR gasket, you can see below in the picture, its utilized in many applications. (Fel-Pro 70978)
Chip- the stock chip will set a code at highway speeds if the egr is inoperative.
Vacuum Nipple - to block the vacuum source to the egr. Can use something as simple as a screw in the vac line if your cheap.

And you can heat soak the intake manifold. If it isn't working properly

 

when i got my truck it threw an egr code so i took it out to inspect it. it was gunked up bad.

so i cleaned it with throttle body spray and a flat head to scrape off the hard gunk. worked like a charm cause i havent had an egr code after that.

mine may be different looking than yours so it may not work for you.

 

http://www.partsamerica.com:80/Prod...OR&MfrPartNumber=EGR1273&PartType=282&PTSet=A

my cheapest option from my local store.

 

http://www.partsamerica.com:80/ShoppingCart.aspx

40 more. ouch.

 

That's why he should just rip it off...

No, but I understand why you don't want to get rid of it.

I guess my hillbilly backwoods ways should change a little bit.

But so it hasn't thrown the code again?

 

it could have been a little hiccup. carbon does find a way to gum up in works.

maybe a little piece came loose causing the code.

 

Well, it really depends on like you said, the date of manufacture on a car or the bigger factor, at least to me, wether or not it's efi or carburated . Come to think of it, the only vehicles I've ever done it on have been carb's with no ems

 

In my wifes Taurus it was just gummed up, although it did not cause the mil to come on it was causing very bad pinging when accelerating since it was not opening enough it was not getting enough egr causing the carbon on the pistons to get too hot and cause preignition, after 120,000 miles I just opted to put a new one on and never had another problem. You said you have a 93, just wondering if its obd2?

 

odb2 didnt start till 96. some 95's got it, but not in 93.

 

http://www.partsamerica.com:80/Prod...NIE&MfrPartNumber=FE3146&PartType=282&PTSet=A

is this yours? if so then 50 is not a bad price. my 87 s15 has this style.

i tried to clean mine with throttle cleaner once. didnt help. the diaphragm inside tore. back then it was only 25 or so.

 

my 94 Tbird with 4.6 was obd2

 

hmmm maybe it was some 94's then.

 

I had a ford service mgr tell me that vehicle, well not mine personally but the 94 bird was the 1st vehicle that was obd 2 in the U.S. maybe thats why it was a POS. No i guess you cant blame it on the computer...

 

Oh come on... you can always blame it on the computer. And for a vehicle without a computer. Blame it on the timing and carb.

 

Hey Ranger,

Sorry, been MIA for a while.

If you can get data, look at the DPFE, or PFE voltage on that. Key On, Engine Off should be right at half a volt. If that is skewed, then it will read the actual flow wrong. You can also put vacuum to it and watch the voltage climb. How I do it is: Do a Key On, Engine Running test with a vacuum gauge teed into vacuum line. So, the vacuum line is still hooked to the EGR, but a vacuum gauge is also in the mix. During the test,you want to watch the vacuum gauge to make sure it rises as the test is performed. That verifies the PCM command, the vacuum solenoid, everything. Then look at codes and see if the 332 set. That means it is a right now code, and subject to repair.

If the DPFE is skewed, replace it. Mine is whacked in my Ranger, but I haven't been driving it all that much, so I will pop one on when it is in use.

Hope that helped.