which sub is better out of these ones..?

sorry for butting in here but I saw this while browsing. just check the attachment: Now, My expy has a 130amp alternator. I have the Hifonics BXI1206d and the ZXI6406. I'm going to run the 1206d at 2ohms so thats 900watts and the ZXI is 85watts per channel, so it's 340watts. total would be 1,240 watts. According to this audio calculator (if its right) I don't have enough power to (from the alternator) to run it. Do you think this is true?

download it here:

DataFileHost

 

you should not have any problems, I have the same 130 amp alt in both of my Fords, well one ford and one Mercury. The Taurus has the 1206D @ 1 ohm on the L7 and 4channel Eclipse amp, I think rated at 85x4 , No problems with this setup. The Sable has the Titan 1505D at 1 ohm on the 2 PPIs, also with just a very slight dimming of the lights when cranked. If your gonna run at 2 ohms you should not have any dimming at all. I dont see you having any problems. Both cars have knuconceptz wiring and Autozone Duralast batteries, just normal everyday stuff and both cars have no problems.

 

that's what i was thinking until i saw that thing i downloaded. I feel better now. I didn't want to have to upgrade my alternator. Thanks fstrfvo

 

I cant wait to see your report on how this system performs, I think it will hit pretty hard.

 

Welcome To The KnuKonceptz Online Store

look through their amp kits and power wire

 

Cool, ya i like my taurus, would probably get another one after this one if i had a chance. the new ones are pretty sick the amount of computer crap in the dash lol.

The orion has 30 amp fuse ratings x 2 but i put two 80s in there and fused it at the back battery at 100 amps with an ANL wafer fuse. I will put two 60s in there when it goes in for the final time just because the fuses are underneath the amp and are a pain to replace. So it can't pull more than 100 amps anyways because it's fused. I may need to up that when i go to 1 ohm though, will see if i start popping fuses. I haven't popped the 100 amp fuse yet and that's pushing about 1100 watts rms to my poor kickers lol. They are taking it like a champ, i'm impressed with these subs. CVR12 rated 800 rms for two.

 

well since that amp won't draw more than 160amps i would say thats your minimum for having just that amp. since you're getting 0 gauge you'll be free up to 300amps. so if you're considering adding a bigger amp or possibly another one for speakers then i would go with the biggest one they have which is 250amps.

 

That amp has two 60 amp fuses so 120 total, you can fuse it at 100 or 110 if they have that size, inline within 12" of your battery so your inline fuse blows first. You could always up the inline fuse later if you need to but i would rather it pop there than in the amp.

 

Start with 100 amp and see. 100 amps is a lot of power it will be pumping lol. Don't change the fuses on your amp though eh those have to stay 60s. Control it with the inline fuse. The distribution block with the LCD voltage readout thing in the picture has a 100 amp ANL fuse in it.

 

hey you can bridge that 2 channel amp for 1600 at 1 ohm and run it mono, that way you won't need to build separate chambers for your subs. So you would need two dual 4 ohm subs. Don't want you to make a mistake lol.

 

will that set up sound good at a 1ohm set up? will the bass be clean? just curious cuz there is this new guy on the forums (not approved yet) and he want to run 1 L7 with the BXI1606D amp. Told him that he's going to overpower that sub so he decided to make it 2 L7's. Would it be better to run 2 L7's at 2ohms or 2 L7's at 1 ohm?

 

he's going with 2 12" L7's DVC 4ohm. just wire the amp at 1ohm. that should pound the hell out of his car.