Viking Audio

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by electrolytic, Apr 18, 2007.

  1. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    refurbished stuff...like subs that don't pass QC then are reconed or subs that have scratches here and there...fully functional just subs that aren't A-stock worthy.

    Elemental Designs
     
  2. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok cool, thanks. Ya that's what i got then was b-stock, i was wondering why the back was all scratched but the cone looked new. I wonder if this sub is even worth reconing? maybe it has a problem. I paid for a new one.
     
  3. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    are you sure you got a b-stock one??? cuz you should have paid for a new one but gotten a b-stock

    My magnet sticker was a lil scratched up but i didn't really care
     
  4. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ya, on the back of the magnet where the writing is, is that a sticker? ok well that and the black glue they used for the cone to the rubber was like dripping down on the cone then dried like that. i'll see if i still have a pic of it. It seemed used to me when i opened it. I just want to make sure the basket isn't twisted or something before i decide what i'm going to do.
     
  5. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    well the sticker wasn't really a sticker...like paint...but whatever the sub sounds amazing...the eD magnet sticker only adds like 25 deebeez
     
  6. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok, i'm pretty sure i'm going for two of them @ 2 ohms each.

    I will probably have to break that board that i fiberglassed in to get the woofer out so i might as well make the new face board for a double now and be done with it.

    Umm, i was thinking to make the face board out of steel this time and have it spot welded to my trunk so it doesn't move at all. Maybe like 1/4 inch steel and have them cut the circles?
     
  7. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    steel???

    i wouldn't go that route

    rather you should have fiberglassed like a 3-4 inch wide strip of MDF all around the baffle area...then bolt the baffle board to it...would be a pain in the ass but it would be removeable...just an idea though
     
  8. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    wait!! dont cut the whole thing out.just cut out around the sub with a jig saw.then open up the hole,and do what azn suggested.reenforce your original baffle,but make the sub mount removeable.
     
  9. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    wait wait lol, i'm lazy haven't done anything yet. I want to make my faceboard like a fake wall in the trunk that will be like permanent. The original board i put with brackets nuts and bolts then fiberglass has broken it's seal around the edges from the car twisting when i go up curbs or whatever. So i want something more permanent so it doesn't have a chance of moving and breaking the seal again this time around. I would really like to use steel and have it spot welded and just mount the subs from the back this time.

    I'm still bumping on the one coil lol, it doesn't want to die, going for a cruise now maybe i'll take one last video.
     
  10. mrmizcue

    mrmizcue Full Member

    i am not sure about that...have you thought of building a frame , then bolt the plate with a rubber gasket and slotted holes so that it can still flex and remain sealed. What i picture is if everything welded and the car flexes it might cause major damage to car. with the rubber gasket and slotted holes in the frame everything can still move...around 5-7%, which will be enough to keep from having major damage....just a thought...
     
  11. mrmizcue

    mrmizcue Full Member

    you just would have to cut the plate about 1/4" smaller on all sides...that gives you 1/2" movement.....could use 11/2 x 11/2" 18 ga angle for the frame and weld that to the car. then use allen head bolts for the plate and smaller ones fo the sub....again just a thought....
     
  12. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    you crack me up:lol:

    play on playa.:D
     
  13. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Last edited: Aug 23, 2007
  14. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    someones got too much time on his hands.lol
     
  15. G3n3R@1

    G3n3R@1 Full Member

    wow i cannot believe i just watched all of those..... WTF still cool in a weird way lol
     
  16. mrmizcue

    mrmizcue Full Member

    Welding 1/4" plate to your car (normally around 14-16 ga) would require alot a current running through the welding machine so it can melt the plate...which is fine...but welding effects both sides of the metal...not just the side you are welding. welding the 14-18 ga angle to your car does not require as much current to weld. I just want to share what i know....good luck
     
  17. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    at welding school...welding on 1/4 inch mild steel plate...the machine was at like 80-100 amps for stick welding...forget what it was at for mig though
     
  18. mrmizcue

    mrmizcue Full Member

    it should be about the same
     
  19. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    14-18 gauge angle? Is that like a corner piece, two sides of metal 90 degrees. I could get some long ones to go around the edges and drill holes to mount the mdf?

    What if i filled my trunk with Jello LOL.
     
  20. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    if you did...get a spoon and start EATING!!