Throttletune I have an intermitten problem thats only happened a couple of times, once to me and twice with my wife. We have a 98 Mercury Tracer which we bought new. The other day it cranked (the motor turned over normally) but it failed to start. A second attempt and the same thing. The third time, it started normally. My wife told me that same thing happened to her, 2 or 3 months ago and one time before that (It happened a while back and she couldn't remember when). She never said anything to me because it only happened a couple of times and then never again. I hate problems like this because it is impossible to diagnose. The vehicle is working normal right now. Now the vehicle has NO factory security system and my security system does NOT have the ignition kill option installed. (if a thief wants it bad enough, that won't even slow him down). So lets rule that out I need an educated guess. The cars computer is too reliable so I will eliminate that as an option. I am also gonna assume that the fuel pump either works or it don't. That leaves me with the relays that turn those 2 things on. The ECM relay and the Fuel pump relay. In your many years have you seen these as problems on Ford vehicles?
Same sh!t happened with my dads Silverado. Everytime you would start it the first time it would NEVER start...then it would always start on the second try. Was annoying. Then he took it into the shop and they replaced the internal fuel pump in the tank. Problem fixed. Always starts right up now. A lot better than starting it for a half second then waiting then starting it up again
*In a hick voice* "You wouldn't have that problem with a FOARD!" haha, ah, silly americans. No idea. But good luck!
I'm gonna assume the fuel pump is not the problem because this has only happened three times, once to me just this past Saturday, and to my wife twice, once 2 or 3 months ago and another time before that.
vapor lock? Ford kicks ass, didn't you guys know? Ford=First On Race Day Although i would rather have a Chrysler.
Hey Ranger, I will say the pumps are generally pretty bulletproof on those things. The circuitry is at times suspect though. Here's how it works on that car. Turn the key, you get a prime to the pump. Then, it awaits a crank signal to energize the fuel pump relay once the ECM sees a crank signal. So, what it boils down to is if the ECM doesn't see crank, you won't have fuel pressure. It runs through a fuel pump relay, then it goes through the inertia switch, which is the deal that kills power to the pump in the event of an accident. That is in the LF kick panel. The fuel pump relay is in the Constant Control Relay Module, which also has the cooling fan relay and A/C relay, and assorted stuff in there. Double check those connections. CCRM usually don't have connect issues, but I have seen the inertia switch connections be suspect. Here is how I would approach this. When and if it ever happens again, pay VERY close attention to the Check Engine Light. That is a huge clue. Turn the key, the light should light. Crank it over, it should go out as it cranks. If it stays lit, that means the ECM doesn't see a crank signal. But, and there is always a but, if there are codes stored, that doesn't hold true. So, next you need to see if there are any codes stored. If none, then you are OK. If so, let me know, and I can give better help. Intermittent, codes actually can help. One other thing that does come to mind is the coil connectors on those 2.0's do tend to have questionable contacts. Pin spread is a known issue. But, they generally only affect 2 of the 4 cylinders. But, I have seen no starts because of that as well. Good luck, and if there are codes, that would be a plus.
i had a buddy of mine that had the same thing happen to him. with his it was the fan relay.his ECU thought his car was over heating and wouldnt let it start. then if you just waited like 10 mins it would crank and wouldnt do it for another long while.
By the way, I can't say I actually love cars. I find they are a necessary evil to get me back and forth to work. So, that's whay I put stereo's n stuff in them. To make that part more enjoyable. But, I do need cars. Because there really is nothing better than working on them.
I had a similar problem. I could start my truck the first time. BUT if somebody moved the car even in neutral it wouldnt start to save my life. I found out it was the wireing. Could it be something like that?
I had to replace the CCRM once a while back, the AC quit working. It was a bad relay in the box. I remember because it was next to impossible to find the relay. The AC coil plug had voltage on it when it was unplugged from the compressor, but as soon as I plugged it in the voltage dropped to just a couple volts. The relay contacts had become resistive. Thats the box under the Air Filter housing right? Anyway there are NO stored codes and I'll pay attention to the "check engine" light. Any way this probably wont happen again for months. That why I don't like this problem.
I have worked on auto electrical stuff for a while. Modern electrical connectors just don't come loose. I really think its a relay, but I'd like to prove it. I have found that throwing money at a problem will eventually fix the problem. But thats way to expensive. I am not a mechanic, but I am a hobbiest. I have never left a car alone. I change things at the earliest Opportunity. My sons car was the most fun I've had in years. It barely made it to my house when I bought it, this weekend he is going to Lubbock (2 hours away) and no doubt in my mind it will make it. The long tube header in my Ranger was a blast, especially trying to figure out the best place for the O2 bung. Heres what we figured out (if its dumb let me know). Mark the collector with a crayon, start the engine, and run it to 2000 RPM. The first spot the crayon melts is the hottest spot. Put the bung there. Anyway thats how we did it in 96. I tinker therefore I am I still don't like this problem
Im not familiar with the set up of a mercury but i do have an expedition. My father's has been cursed with starting problems cuz it's never used. it's an "01 and it has all about 17,000km on it. Again, i'm just going to share what happened to his truck so you could relate it to your car cuz they are both fords. First, he also had an intermittant starting problem. About 8 months ago it started to happen getting gradually worse. After having the EGR, IAC, MAF sensors tested and cleaned. The problem was still there, then i had the fuel pump system pressure tested... It was okay but the problem was still there. After doing a little reseach i found out that the whole cause of the hard starting problem was infact the vapor canister. The vapor canister was clogged and i got one off of ebay for $65. Now, the truck runs like a champ. no more problems with it at all. Note: When this problem started, it began just like your problem. It usually took 2 to 3 times to get the thing started. You may want to check on the vapor canister on your mercury, for sure they have them or you could try cleaning up the sensors, when they get dirty they tend to start screwing up.
haha yeah. I know someone that almost put a whole new engine in his car but finally found out it was just the alternator.
Sad to say Ranger, the best plan at this time is to let it run its course. That is the advice I would give to a customer that showed up to the shop I'm at as well. We can guess, and use some logical deduction, but it really boils down to becoming more repeatable. If I told someone it was going to be 300-500 dollars to try and track it down, with absolutely no possible way to promise a fix, they would call me nuts. For it to be found, I would need my scopes, my scanner, and a fuel gauge hooked up at the exact right time as it happened. And then, only get a couple cranks of the starter to duplicate it. And hope I am tagging the right wires with the scopes. I know watching the CEL sounds a simplistic way to track a problem, but it really does verify many things in one quick shot. No CEL lit ever, we have a power or ground issue. Constant CEL, we have have one issue. No CEL cranking, at least we know the ECM can see something. Welcome to the wonderful world of intermittents.
ranger.. how old is the battery in that car? the reason why I'm asking is this: so many car parts (and components) run very close tolerances, and are easily affected by voltage fluctuations. I have seen (but only a couple) cars that had enough power to turn over the engine, but the electronics would not function properly until the battery was replaced with a new one. Just a thought that you might check the batt and do a load test on it. or not
I actually had to replace it last week. The wife went to the store and when she came out it wouldnt start. I mean it wouldnt even crank (the "problem" was it would crank but it wouldnt start) One of the local battery shops does house calls. Went to the store, replaced the battery, tested the old one, checked and tested the charging system. Result, old battery was dead everything else checked out. Hmmmmm
not trying to be mean but i have to there is a reason that mercury named the car a mistake because its junk jk
ok well i had a similar problem with my dodge and i found that the IAC motor in my throttle boddy was dirty so i started the truck and had a buddy rev it up and down while i sprayed carburator cleaner down the throat and then i changed the air cleaner and havent had a problem since.
