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Orion HCCA 2100 Competition Amplifier

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by electrolytic, Apr 5, 2007.

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  1. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I got my Orion woooo ****ing hooooooooooo LOL Thanks Viking for your recommendation, you are the audio god! The color of the finish is pretty frigin nice too, almost matches my car lol. One thing, it has a few small scratches which i dont mind but the circuit board doesn't look like it's lineing up properly, or maybe it's just the casing is a bit abused, one of the screws is in crooked and loose. I hope it's ok.
     

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    electrolytic, Apr 5, 2007
    #1
  2. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

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    Attached Files:

    electrolytic, Apr 5, 2007
    #2
  3. jmenace_thakidd

    jmenace_thakidd Full Member

    hope everything is ok for ya looks like a real good amp
     
    jmenace_thakidd, Apr 5, 2007
    #3
  4. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Yes!, This thing is a beast. Hey viking would i be able to hook this up temporary on what i have without the second battery and relay at 400 watts? Until i get the rest of the stuff. Or am i just asking for trouble.

    Orion HCCA 2100

    2 x 100W @ 4 ohms
    2 x 200W @ 2 ohms
    2 x 400W @ 1 ohm
    2 x 800W @ ½ ohm (competition only)
    1 x 400W @ 4 ohms bridge
    1 x 800W @ 2 ohms bridge
    1 x 1600W @ 1 ohm bridge (competition only)
    THD: 0.03%
    S/N Ratio: 110dB
    Freq. Response: 6Hz ~ 30kHz (±0.5dB)
    Fuse: External 120A
    Dimensions: 23" x 8" x 3.125" (59cm x 20.3cm x 7.9cm)
     
    electrolytic, Apr 5, 2007
    #4
  5. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Ya electo, you could do that. It will still draw some serious current, but you should be fine if you have doen your electrical sytem upgrades.


    In case you dont know, that amp has 2 interanl fuses in it. Pull off one of the end plates using a t-15 and check them right off the bat.....if they are gold plated ends on them, pull them out (then throw them in the trash) and replace them with NON gold plated. I think they are supposed to be 30 amps each if I remeber right. While you have the cover off the back of it, look at the power wire connectors on the board, be sure they are tight and not corroded. Another thing i reccomend is also tinning the power wires after you strip them back. You dont have too, but it makes for a good solid connection. Also after the first 2 days of installation, go back and retightend the power wire connections, then again in a few weeks....this is important. And i can never emphasize this enough.... make a KICK ASS ground connection!!!!!
     
    TheViking, Apr 6, 2007
    #5
  6. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok, i'm scared lol. Little worried about the casing being crooked, it wasn't packaged very well and could have been thrown around. I'm going to wait to install it and do it nice, maybe make a rack for it. My electrical is not up to par yet and knowing me i'll want to crank it lol. Will pull the cover off and see what's going on in there lol, will post pics later tonight.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 8, 2007
    #6
  7. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Orion HCCA 2100

    2 x 100W @ 4 ohms
    2 x 200W @ 2 ohms
    2 x 400W @ 1 ohm
    2 x 800W @ ½ ohm (competition only)
    1 x 400W @ 4 ohms bridge
    1 x 800W @ 2 ohms bridge
    1 x 1600W @ 1 ohm bridge (competition only)
    THD: 0.03%
    S/N Ratio: 110dB
    Freq. Response: 6Hz ~ 30kHz (±0.5d
    Fuse: External 120A
    Dimensions: 23" x 8" x 3.125" (59cm x 20.3cm x 7.9cm)

    If i hook this up to my 12" 500 watts total rms 4 ohm dvc sub it would have to be 1 x 800w @ 2 ohms bridged. Is this a bad idea, i don't care about the speaker just don't want to damage the amp if the sub fries. or 2 x 100watts @ 4 ohms. I found a nice board - shelf piece that am going to use as an amp rack, might try it out tonight.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #7
  8. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Just hook it up at 4 ohms per channel! One voice coil per channel it will still pound the crap out of that sub.


    Also, keep i mind, if you blow a voice coil, the amp has NO PROTECTION other than fuses on the speaker leads!!!!! (you do have fuses on the leads? dont you???? )
     
    TheViking, Apr 10, 2007
    #8
  9. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Well, the amp works, i made a nice rack and it has it's home in my trunk now. It took me a whole ten minutes to fry the **** out of that sub lol. This amp must be wayyyyyyyyyyyyy underated, i had it hooked only at 100watts per coil 4 ohms. And it blew my 80 amp fuse up by the battery at the same time. So i unhooked the sub replaced the fuse and the amp still turns on thank god, i will hook up a crappy speaker tommorow just to make sure it's still putting out. What kind and rating of fuses do i use on the speaker wires and how? And is it just one on each negative of each speaker wire?
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #9
  10. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    If i remember right, left positive, and right negative get qa fuse, i think it is a 7 amp fuse.........go witha 5 amp for now till I find out for sure.



    If you blew the 80 amp fuse at the battery, that is not good.........did you pull an end cover off and check the internal fuses like i told you?????
     
    TheViking, Apr 10, 2007
    #10
  11. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I tried, i pulled off the end caps and i couldn't get the bottom plate off without maybe bending it so i didn't get right inside the amp. From what i could see though the insides look very clean and the amp doesn't smell toasty at all. I don't think it was abused at all, usually i smell at least a little burning inside amps lol.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #11
  12. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    that thing sounds like a monster.a LOOOOONG time ago.around 92.a friend had a 250hcca.i tested it in my truck, hooked to 2 mtx blue thunder12's(that still work BTW)and holy crap they pounded.with only 50 watts per channel.yeah right!more like 200 per.that thing was 3 times as big as my vulcan,and that thing is rated at 50x2.
     
    pedro quiroga, Apr 10, 2007
    #12
  13. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member

    Then remove BOTH end caps and tap the cover to the side with a scewdriver handle....i will then slide right out. PLEASE do this!!



    Like I say, these amps are very picky and like a drag car engine. they need to be well cared for and kept up well. If not, they WILL blow up on ya!!! Respect the power!!! Dont abuse it!!!!!



    THose Clipping lights are pretty accurate!!!!!!! When they flash a little, that means that you are driving in into soft clipping....if they are on solid yellow......then you are asking for trouble!!!!

    One sytem i did i run leads from the ampo to the front of the car by the radio with LED's to show when the amp was clipping. A little flash here and there from them is OK....but if theyare on most of the time...you are gunna kill some shyte!!!!!
     
    TheViking, Apr 10, 2007
    #13
  14. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member



    The 250 HCCA was anothe Incredible amp in the line. But the225 HCCA was king shyte in my opinion.



    I still have a 275 SX in my ol ladies car, which is the SAME THING as a 225 HCCA axcept for a few components on the board. It performs FLAWLESSLY....running a 12, and 4 satelites with al passives....
     
    TheViking, Apr 10, 2007
    #14
  15. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    lol oh man do i have too...It's already in my trunk hooked up and screwed down. What's wrong with gold plated fuses? Gold is a better conductor than silver or copper.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #15
  16. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    ok, ya those green lights were on more than off, i clipped it probably big time.

    These orion amps don't really have distortion that you can hear like other amps, it's just you can turn it up to a point then the bass doesn't get louder even if you turn up more.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #16
  17. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    i thought the 275sx wasnt stable into 1/2 ohm.only 2 ohm stereo.
     
    pedro quiroga, Apr 10, 2007
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  18. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    I opened my trunk and a big cloud of smoke came out and was still coming out the port lol. Hope the amp is ok.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #18
  19. TheViking

    TheViking Well-Known Member


    GOLD IS NETTER THAN SILVER??????????



    reread your elecrical books!!!!


    Gold is a shyty conductor!!!!! worse than copper and only better than ceramics and play doh.....



    Heres the deal....gold is grat for corrosion resistance....thats it.....IT SUCKS FOR CONDUCTIVETY!!!!!!!!!! YES THIS IS TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!!! I dont give a rats ass what anyone else tells you...


    Now, gold plated fuses sure look pretty...but to maintaint thelook, the fusibla elemnts in the fuse are not adhered properly in my book, cuase if they were, the gold plating would not adhere properly, and flake off like the cheap crap it is......which would defeat the idea of gold plating, whcih is too make the fuse pretty and all happy looking for the ghey tards that use them thinking that gold is the best conductor.



    What the helll did i just tyoe?????? who cares really!!!!


    A good ol fashioned fuse that is NON gold plated WILL allow more current flow than a gold plated crap-ol-a fuse......


    Do a search on the electricl properties of gold.....and copper, and silver, and even brass.........then lead.......:)
     
    TheViking, Apr 10, 2007
    #19
  20. electrolytic

    electrolytic Full Member

    Lol viking, you are wrong.. Gold is the best conductor, they use all gold wiring and circuits in the space shuttle because gold is less resistance of all metals...
    I will prove it in a minute lol. And plus i'm very lazy and don't want to pull the amp out again.
     
    electrolytic, Apr 10, 2007
    #20
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