Hi, I'm as green as a Granny Smith Apple when it comes to sound system design. Your input and advice is very much appreciated! I have an open bow Four Winns which currently has a Sony receiver and (4) Sony 20 watt RMS speakers in the Hull. I'm upgrading the Receiver to a Clarion M475, Adding the following; - Wakeboard Tower mounted (4) Polk Audio 675 60 W RMS 150W Peak - (2) Polk Momo 2104 10" Subs 300 Watt RMS / 600 Watt Peak - (1) Clarion AXP 480M 4/3/2ch 650 Watt Amp - (1) Bazooka MA 1500 mono 500 watt RMS Sub Amp - (1) additional deep cycle Marine Battery - I most likely replace the Hull speakers with 675's Here are my questions; What additional equipment will I need, if any? Should I install a Crossover to split out the appropriate signals to each amp? If no crossover is needed (as recommended by local audio retailer), then how do I connect each amp properly for best quality of sound? e.g. how do make sure the Sub amp is sending only low freq's and Clarion amp sends only mid's and high freq's? Also, because of the nature of boating (running on battery while idle) I would like to have the ability to keep the original Hull speakers off the amps, and the ability to switch off the amps and subs to conserve battery power. (I do know how to facilitate the wiring & switch installations). Is there anything I may have missed or should consider? Your input is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Scott
I hope you don't plan on fishing with this boat. You will scare all the fish away with those subs. I think its cool to have a system in a boat.
your amps should have built in crossovers.so i dont think you need any.all mono amps are for sub use only so none are needed.
A vary simple method for switching amps off and on is by installing toggle switches on the dash in line with the remote turn on leads to the proper amps. Sorry, i am not familiear with the amps you are using, if you could post links to them That would be of great help. Another thing, the electrical connections are critical in a water enviorment. I suggest either a) solder and heat shrink ALL connections, or b) use heat shrinkable crimp connectors. Also , use the cheesy gold plated coneections for batteries and power wire to amp connections (solder them also)....they will usually resist the enviorment better than anything else in my experience. Keep the subs firing in a downward manner also.....things can and WILL get wet, this will minimize any chance of water damage.
as far as getting the right frequencies goes. On the mono amp you want to use a Low Pass Filter , (LPF) . Which will allow only those below the set frequency to pass to the speaker. Then on the clarion amp use a High Pass Filter, (HPF) which does the same for the highs. Both amps should have these features.
Viking...there ARE marine grade COPPER terminals...they are all copper terminals just plated in something...I like them better than the cheesy stamped copper terminals haha Viking check these out. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=263-644 $6.89 for two 0 gauge BRASS ring terminals haha...i can get two copper termnials for less than half that price
Thanks! Thanks everyone for pointing me in the right direction. I'll be installing everything this weekend and hope all goes well. One more question; I'm installing a second battery to provide longer battery time when the motor is turned off. Does anybody have recommendations whether or not to install a battery isolator?? From what I understand, the isolater device allows both batteries to charge from the alternator; however, if one battery drains, the second battery is isolated and will not drain. I guess the idea is to dedicate one battery for starting only, and the second battery for running accessories & audio equipment. Any ideas? Thanks again everyone! Scott
isolating each battery from each other will not provide longer run time. Read the stickey on how to add another battery...use a PAC 200 relay Get the biggest deep cycle battery with the most reserve capacity you can
Like Azn said read this link http://www.caraudiotalk.com/audio-forum/showthread.php?t=4028 You can add more than one battery if you feel you need to, but be sure they are the same age, size, brand...etc.......
Thanks Viking for the direction on the batteries! I purchased two brand new Interstate deep cycle marine batteries for the boat. I wired the batteries in parallel and is working great. I have a question regarding the relay installation you discussed in the other post; We generally will turn the boat motor off and swim around the boat or beach the boat. I installed the second battery to provide additional music play time. If the relay were installed in this scenario, would it work properly for our intentions? It sounds like the two batteries are disconnected from eachother once the ignition is turned off. What would you recommend in our "boating" scenario? Thanks, Scott
Shift, i reccomend the installation of the relay between the 2 sets of batteries. Dedicate one battery to the boat for getting her started, and the other battery (or batteries) for the audio system. If you should happen to run down the audio battery, your main battery for the boat will still be fully charged and capable of starting the engine back up....Both batteries will charge when the engine is running, and they will be isolated from one another when the ignition is off. If you continue to use the current set up you have, you do run the risk of killing both batteries to alevel where they will not start the motor. In this case i would install a Voltmeter in the sytem if one is already not present. once voltage gets to about 11.8 volts or so, time to start the motor or turn the music off. I highly reccomend the relay method. This eliminates any chance of a dead battery out oin the water!!! (been there, and it sux!!! )
Don't know if this would work but it's available. http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672995&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443275943&bmUID=1176209506374&assortment=primary&fromSearch=true
