Help putting together a system

Discussion in 'General Car Audio Discussions' started by Zelgaddis, Mar 12, 2007.

  1. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    it would be the same impedance as parallel....the speaker outputs are paralleled internally.

    So it final load would still be 2 ohms....there is NO way to get a 4 ohm load with dual 4 ohm coils
     
  2. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    I just installed some new front end speakers, and its made all of the difference in the world. I can hear mids SO well now, so much so that I have to turn them down a bit because I still have factory 6x9s in the back. The model I picked up and installed was a KFC-1380ie, and I have to say I really really enjoy the enhanced sound quality. The system doesn't sound muddy now, and when the sub is hooked up in the back Im thinking its going to make it sound more balanced rather than just solid bass, my car came with factory tweeters so I think this may just end up enhancing the overall sound quality with the system added by a pretty big factor.

    Update!

    The box is half fabbed, the mounting hole was the hardest overall. They gave me a template with the sub that I traced and cut without compairing to the sub....it was an EXACT fit. So 40min of sanding later the sub fits in the hole perfectly. Finishing the rest tomorrow and doing the electrical, seating the sub and ports then waiting for the amp to arrive on Monday =)

    I just had a look see at my head units pre-out levels, 2500mV@10k(horseshoe shaped sign) Now should I match that up with the input sensitivity control that directly correlates with it on the amp, or step it down a little bit to protect the subs(I'm assuming this is what Kenwood is calling a gain). Of course I'll be tuning this in, but is there a way to hook up a constant 40Hz sign wave into the system specifically for tuning purposes? Maybe a test CD? Ive been looking around and I've found some audio programs that can do that, but I cant figure out how to get it onto CD.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2007
  3. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    There are test tones you can download over at www.realmofexcursion.com

    You do not match the voltage number from your head unit to the amps...this is not the right way to set the gain.

    Play a 45, 50, or 60 Hz tone and use a DMM on the speaker terminals...slowly turn the gain up until the AC voltage reads around 34-35 volts...this will have you set around 600 watts.

    BUT make sure your sub level is all the way up on your head unit while setting the gain
     
  4. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Whats a DMM?
     
  5. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    digital multi meter.also the horseshoe sign means "ohms".
     
  6. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    I wasn't going to set the gain at like 2500, the manual has a spot for 2.5v on the input sensitivity control, thats why I asked.

    Box is done, speaker installed mounted and all wiring is finished. Amp gets here tomorrow and i'll post install pics!
     
  7. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    The gain shouldn't be set by looking at the voltage numbers set around the gain knob...gain should be set with the DMM.

    Your head unit will not put out 2.5 volts or whatever at all volumes so it is best to use a DMM unless you have good ears and know what you are doing
     
  8. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    I'll trust the DMM ^_^
     
  9. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    I would too
     
  10. ibanezFreak87

    ibanezFreak87 Full Member

    gain should be set by the EARS!!!!!
     
  11. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    If you know what the listen for...I use a tone and listen for clipping...then check with a DMM
     
  12. ibanezFreak87

    ibanezFreak87 Full Member

    i guess I should get a DMM.

    but my ears are like perfect and I'm just so damn awesome that I can set gains with my mind . 500 yards away.
     
  13. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Ahh...young one you have learned the way the Jedi...use the force wisely
     
  14. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    yes,but can you snatch the pebble from my hand?
     
  15. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    can YOU drink the Dew from my can??
     
  16. pedro quiroga

    pedro quiroga Well-Known Member

    :lmfao: :no:
     
  17. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Holy crap, I got thread jacked!

    I just thought of something, am I going to need to upgrade my alternator at these loads?
    Just did some calcs and at 500Watts RMS assuming a steady 13.8v charge on the battery or output from the alternator the battery's power is consumed in a total of 107seconds full tilt, or my math is way off.Thats assuming that the battery is rated at 65 amp hours.

    Anywho, thanks much for the help guys! You made this all possible

    [EDIT]

    Finished and done, and tired. Pretty much everything that could have gone wrong to make things difficult did, i'll post pics tomorrow
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2007
  18. aznboi3644

    aznboi3644 Full Member

    Your eclipse prolly won't need a new alternator...my friend ran a Kicker 600.1 in his eclipse for about year with stock battery and no big three and he was fine...only mad dimmage lol

    I would just upgrade your big three and your battery to a Duralast Gold.

    Why Duralast Gold??? Because I have one and it works very well
     
  19. Zelgaddis

    Zelgaddis Full Member

    Went out drinking with some friends tonight, no dim at idle full tilt. Rattles the **** out of my car, its nuts. I cant turn it up to full volume, it hurts my ears. Im happy and drunk about to pass out as I post this. Peace yo
     
  20. psycho_maniac

    psycho_maniac Full Member

    Sweet. Can't wait for the pics. Espically if its in an eclipse, which is what i have :D