Help putting together a system

OH! Now I understand everything you guys are saying, I misinterpreted the CRX box to be much more complex than it really is. So I've made a few adjustments to the box dimensions now to accomdate the sub port and sub's cubic displacement. The boxes new dimensions are:

28 In. Wide
16.5 In. Height
18 In. Depth
.75 In. Thick MDF Fiberboard
28x16.5x18 = 3.79557 cubic feet.

Now with displacement that sounds a little better, and I'm going out to buy the MDF Fiberboard tomorrow and fab it this weekend, I'll be sure to post pics, and the subs, amp, and wiring kit get here around the 19th so i'll throw up pics of the final install when I get it all done!

So, I should tune this in at 38-40Hz.....

Last question before everything gets here then is, how long should the ports be if they are 4in in diameter, and what should I line the inside of my box with as far as padding?

 

Ok, when I enter the numbers for my box and the tuning frequency that you're giving me and port diameter the calc that I'm using is saying that the 4in diameter holes should only go back 2.65052 in.

14in long ports compared to 2.65 is just huge.

I'm not trying to say either is right or wrong because I don't know much about this stuff, I just noticed that its a vast difference, and I'd just like to know the reasoning behind it?

And just to clarify you do mean cutting a 4in diameter hole in the back of the box then gluing a 4in diameter PVC or Cardboard into the back of the box that extends 14inches into the box, correct?

[EDIT]Calc Link
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

 

Ok, sorry about that. Still nub haha, but now I've got a crystal clear idea of how the install is going to work, how its going to be wired, and just about everything else. I'd just like to say thanks so much, you were patient and explained everything really well, and I just cant say thanks enough.

On another note, looks like my amp is getting here the 19th, and everything else late tomorrow. Meaning, I'll have the box fabed with a sub sitting in it with pictures by the weekend. Thanks again so much.

[EDIT] Since I'll be running 850Watts RMS, is there anything that I should do to avoid frying my speaker? I know this will hit hard, but is there a way to tell when the system is being pushed to hard? I just don't want to do any damage here. Because I want to push the speaker to its limits, or will it only draw as much as it needs?

 

Double post, sorry.

 

Ah I see, and the instructions on how to do that will be in the amp owners manual? Going to try and find one online now

I was just reading the owners manual for the amp and found nothing on gain levels. Also the min LPF-Hz setting on this amp is 50Hz. If thats even related to to tuning it in at around 40Hz that you guys were suggesting.
So my question is, what should I do to adjust the RMS Wattage of the AMP? Set the bass boost to 0 and watch my volume?

My head unit is a KDC-MP628 PDF Below
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/613/613MP628.PDF

The manual mentions LPF-Hz, ISF, Input Sensitivity, Phase, and Bass Boost Settings that I can toy with.

Here is the link to the amps owners manual as a PDF.
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/113/113KAC9102.PDF

[EDIT]

So this is pretty sweet, I just went out to my car to mess around with some settings just to see what my head could do before I even installed the speakers, it fried. Thankfully its still under warranty, so I have to go up to best buy tomorrow and tell them to give me a damn new unit. When I turn the volume over 20 on FM or put in a CD the unit just turns on, then off. Never stops, just keeps going, it looks like it gets half way through the boot up screen and just shuts down again. This makes me doubt Kenwood right before my install, but maybe it was just BestBuy who screwed up the original install.

 

The head unit is fixed and working in perfect condition now, both the sub and wiring kit arrived today and the sub is.....gigantic and heavy. I can't imagine how hard this thing will hit. The amp is due to get here Monday which is perfect because I can fab the box over this weekend and run the wires and have everything waiting for the amp.

I just had a look-see in my car, and the firewall looks to be impermeable! I'm about to head back out there but it looks like running this to the back of the car is going to be a guised nightmare. There is a single sheath of shielded black cable that manages to punch through the firewall on the passenger side, more details when I have them later and pictures of the fabbed box soon as well!

If anyone knows where you can find a wiring guide for a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS, link please =), if not i'll manage. You guys have been great, you really have.

[EDIT]

I was just toying around and it looks like if I remove the passenger side wheel and plastic I should have "moderately" easy access to the firewall hole. So the install starts tomorrow and I'll be sure to take lots of pics!

I was thinking about a previous post though, in an eclipse will the trunk rattle to hell? I just had a look back there its ALL plastic that seems to overlap. I hope I'm wrong there, but if rattle occurs whats the cheapest way to deal with it? Dynamat?

 

I just spoke with a Kenwood rep, and it turns out I can bridge the terminals!!!

Resulting @ 500Watts RMS

The secondary voice coil negative and positive would be connected on one side.
Then the positive primary voice coil would be attached to one of the positive terminals while the negative side would follow the same suit, but to the other terminal's negative.

Because there are 2 terminals, each with a pos and neg hookup.

Jesus thats the best news I've heard all day, I've just had this worry in the back of my mind that somehow I would mess up the gains or turn it up to loud one time and blow up a bunch of money.

 

Oh, well thats nice to know. Out of curiosity what would have happened had I hooked that up?