Need help deciding on a system for a Chevy Suburban

So, you gunna install this yourself????

As far as the boom boom end of it goes, there are ALOT of options, and going to be ALOT opinions on this......First, lets look at what it takes to make bass, The movement of air, so you want to move as much air as possible to get the most bass...with that said, and the room you have, might I suggestsomething along the lines of 2) 15 inchers, or even 2) 18 inchers... Or even 4) 12 inchers.....Any of those combinations in a vented box WILL rattle your head, along with everyone else within an 1/8 of a mile... a simple vented box with the subs firing up is a VERY effective way to get bass in that thing, trust me, i have done quite of few of those trucks for the brothers!

what brand? well, that depends on how you wanna spread that thousand bucks around.

Say.....400 bucks for an amp
100 bucks in wireing
300 bucks in subs
100 bucks for front speakers
and another 100 bucks for a highs amp

Build the box yourself and save some money there

As far as brands go, i am sure some of theother guys will chime in here a little later and give you some insight on that subject

 

I built my system for about 1000 bucks but i was going for sound quality over loudness. So, what I would do since you just really want to bass out is spend more of the budget on the subs and amp.

Front: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-val2vsGH2mS/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=400&I=065S35

Rear: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-val2vsGH2mS/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51600&I=130TSA4103

Subs: [ON SALE buy 1 get 1 free] (buy 4) http://www.crutchfield.com/S-val2vsGH2mS/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&I=2065C12VR2

Amp: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6336.html

Build yourself a box for the subs and wire it all up.. done.

 

I'd do this...and I've heard these myself compared to the new ones and these sound better and have a higher sensitivity

Subs-2 15's
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/03CVR15-2/detail.asp

Amp-a couple of these
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14934

As for speakers...hell whatever sounds good to you man

 

if you got 2 of those 15's one of those kenwood amps would work

 

Um...those are dual 2's

I'd wire each sub to an amp at 1 ohm....would have hella dynamic range and the amps wouldn't be getting ran hard at all

 

Well, as far as the charging system keeping up.......Probably not, if 2 of those kenwoods are in your truck, then i would expect to see a continuous current draw of around 70-80 amps with peaks beyond that while listening to the systeem with "hard and heavy" bass....I am sure your alternator is not good for much more than 100 amps, so with the amperage draw from the amps,and the lights, engine, etc......I doubt your battery would stay charged very well....... If it was just cranked for a few minutes at a time then backed off for a while, you would be OK.....Allows the battery to recharge and such......The ieal thing would be to install a HO alternator, But, that is some serious money................AND, DONT LET ANYONE TELL YOU THAT A FREEKIN STIFFENING CAP WILL SOLVE YOUR PROBELMS!!!!! Dont waste your hard earned money on them, they are a phucking joke...

The best thing for you to do to ge the most SPL out of your system is to do a system that is as EFFICENT as possible...this means going with subs of HIGH sensitivity, an efficient enclosure for the subs, and an amp capable of driving them hard without killing your electrical system.... With the right stuff, I bet a thousand bucks will get you 140 dB..........I will get back to you on this.....

 

The speakers are rated at 500 rms .. and you want to run an amp to each one with 900 rms at 1ohm? thats just way overkill. running 1 amp would put 450rms to each speaker which would be just about right.

 

Hell those subs only need about 300-400 watts to get loud...My friend had two of them on 400 watts rms total and it pounded.

My 98 Explorer has a 130 amp alternator in it factory...pretty sure your Burban has a bigger one...if not than Chevy are cheap bastards.

Upgrade your big three with some 2 gauge welding cable from rural king and you should be alright.

You'll only need to set those kenwoods to put out 500 watts rms each.

My best friend has an older 2 door camry with over 2000 watts of continuous power in it with the factory alternator and two of the big three, and a Kinetik HC800...lights only dim a lil bit...amps are cranked up too, Dunno what kinda frankenstein alternator Toyota put in there but damn

 

2000 watts????? continuous???? at 12 volts that is like....well around 150 amps of current draw!!!!! (with the amps being near 100% efficient!!! ) Nope, sorry buddy, aint no toyota alternator gunna do that!!!!!!!

 

Lol Viking well he as two Memphis MC1000Ds, a Memphis MCsomething 4 channel, two Memphis 12 inch Mojo's, a Kinetik HC800 and the amps are at up pretty high...(my friend still thinks that the gain is a volume knob, even the guys at the shop say "hey they are broken in now so turn up the gain").

But really the alternator seems to be pretty fast at recharging because the lights dim and then they get bright real quick, he's had this setup for a few months now...the lights dim but not at much though....it's hit 147db when he first put all that sh!t in without retuning things

I dunno Vike, I'm amazed myself...I think something is wrong with my explorer because I can see my volt gauge drop with only 500 watts rms of power...F U C K I N G-F O R D-B A S T A R D S

 

I have mazda. mazda = ford. ford = sucks.

due to the continuous suckage property.

my mazda sucks.

it dims like hell and i only have a 500/1 run to a 12w7

 

Yes...ford mazda sucks.

My friend just got a 2002 mazda protege5 and he only has a 760 watts max pioneer GM5100T i think and a couple 10 inch Boston Acoustics G2's and hits lights dim...bastards

 

Decent sensitivity, work good in a vented box, and a good price, those should make some fine subs for what you want!!!!!!

Some of the guys on here know more about that profile amp than me.....I remember one of the particular lines of profile is pretty good according to a few folks. Just dont remember which one!!!

 

I usually prefer to get mono amps when running subs that way you are not limited to 4ohm in bridged mode. What you really want is a 1ohm stable single channel amp.

Cheap route: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4097.html

Midrange: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6189.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3474.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5432.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7559.html

Higher Cost: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2349.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4022.html

 

The 2 kicker 15 inchers and that profile amp would actually match up just fine. Each woofer is dual 4 ohm....So, wire each sub up as a 2 ohm driver (parallel the voice coils) then run one sub on the left channel and one sub on the right channel...This a good way to do this. The amp will be putting out the same amount of power as if it were in bridged mode, and the dampning factor will be better (thats the amps ability to control the speakers movement) As a matter of fact, it was my preffered way to do it.

 

you could yes.. but i always getted bitched at for using a 2 channel amp to power subs.. don't ask me why! because they won't answer that! Viking is right though you can wire those subs to 2 ohm on each channel.. OR you can use a single channel amp that is 1ohm stable meaning you can wire both subs together to make a 1ohm load on the amp. So when you are looking at amps.. you can go with a 2 channel 2 ohm stable amp that puts about 500rms per channel in 2ohm mode.. OR .. a single channel amp that is 1ohm stable with about 1000 rms in 1ohm mode.